Comment posted Guest Posts by Larry Weinstein.
I have an older Sears Craftsman Lawn Tractor Model 917.271080, with the Kohler Model CV-16S, 16HP engine. A short while ago it just stopped dead while I was using it. It would not crank over until I removed the spark plug. Then it cranked over. I replaced the spark plug, but it just would not start. Then all of the fuel just flowed out of the gas tank, through the carburetor, and to the ground.
I replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter, put in new fuel, changed the spark plug and the same thing happened again, with all of the fuel draining out through the carburetor. Now there is also the smell of gasoline that can be detected in my engine oil when I remove the oil filler cap. What is wrong and how can I correct this problem?
Thank you.
Larry Weinstein also commented
- Best Oil Filter to Use (based on efficiency and not low price)
I have an older Sears Craftsman Lawn Tractor Model 917.271080, with the Kohler Model CV-16S, 16HP engine. What is the best brand and part # oil filter cartridge for engine longevity for my tractor? Also in Southern California, is it best to use straight 30 weight oil, or 10-40 oil?
- I just purchased a new Sears Professional 24HP, 42″, Lawn Tractor Model #917.286710. It arrived with the deck in a level but twisted position where the left rear tire is about 4+” clear of the deck, but the right rear tire is about 1/2″- from the deck.
Should the deck be so close to the right rear tire, or is there something not right? It seems that under hilly terrain, the tire could easily rub against the deck.
A Sears technician came out to look at the tractor today and noted that the right tire was very close to the deck. His statement to me was that there is no apparent damage to the deck or it’s support arms, and that it is o.k. for the deck to be so close to the tire. He further stated that, if I should be using the tractor on hilly terrain and the tire rubs against the deck, the worst thing that will happen is that the tire tread may be scraped or some paint rubbed off the deck. This does not seem right!
I told him that I had heard that a few of the newer Craftsman tractor deck front hanger mounts were incorrectly located and welded in place. His response to me was that the condition existing on my new tractor is acceptable to him.
I have two other older Craftsman tractors and have at least 2″+ to 3″+ clearance.
Many thanks,
Larry W.
- Hello Paul,
I just want to thank you for all of your excellent professional guidance and help.
Many thanks,
Larry
P.S. Have a restful, enjoyable, and safe balance of this Memorial Day weekend!
- What is the best way to completely drain all of the old oil from my Sears MTD Yardman Self-Propelled Lawnmower Model #12A-979L401, 21″ blade, 6.5HP Briggs & Stratton Engine? Is there an engine gas or fuel filter, and if so, where is it located and what replacement part should I order. Is there an engine oil filter and if so, where is it located and what part number replacement should I order?
- First: Thank you very much for clear and concise answers to my two questions of yesterday (May 29th)!!!
Second: Instead of replacing the defective deck with the wrongly placed welded hanger mount, Sears wants to take back my new 2009 Sears Craftsman Professional 24HP, 42″, Lawn Tractor Model #917.286710. which I purchased new from Sears a few days ago. Sears wants to trade it for a new 2010 Craftsman Professional 24HP, 42″ model. Question: What are the differences between the 2009 and 2010 same models, and which of the two is a better all around unit. I noticed that the 2010 model has smaller rear tires than my new 2009 model. What other changes have been made, and are these 2010 changes an improvement over the 2009?
Thank you…Larry Weinstein
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Paul,
I’ve purchased a Craftsman 28922 and have mowed with it twice. It produces an uneven cut despite the fact that I’ve adjusted the side-to-side and back-to-front settings of the deck as described in the manual. I’ve also tried various speeds. I’m thinking about exchanging it for a 28980 in the professional series. Can the 28980 be expected to do a better cutting job?
Thanks,
Dennis
@ Dennis, Everyone I have talked to who has purchased the 28980 likes their mower. The district service manager has told me there has been NO problems or complaints on the service side.
I have heard no complaints about cut quality. It does have basically the same deck Consumer’s Reports rated as one of the best on the Cub Cadet.
It will have a lot more power than the 28922 and the engine is a lot smoother. (It’s a v-twin) It is a commercial motor and is the top-of-the-line Briggs. The only disadvantage is it will use more fuel than the 28922.
It seems to be a very good mower and I recommend it highly.
Paul,
I just purchased a Craftsman YT3000 42″ deck with a 21hp B&S engine. (28922). My major complaint with it is that it’s so loud! I’m considering exchanging it for either the 28934 with a Kohler Engine or a 28927 with a twin cylinder B&S. Would either of these units be quieter than what I have or is the noise not primarily caused by the engine? Also, would you say that either of these units would produce a smoother cut than the one I have?
Thanks,
Dennis
@Dennis, The 42 inch decks on the 28922, 28934, and 28927 are all the same.
The twin Briggs has the least vibration than the 21 hp. The Kohler is my favorite single cylinder motor and should be quieter than the Briggs.
The 28934 is getting hard to find so if you are going to switch you should make your decision soon.
I’m about ready to buy a new Sears yard tractor but I have several questions to which I’ve been unable to get solid answers. Perhaps you could help:
1. Is the gear transmission more reliable than the hydrostatic?
2. Is the gear transmission repairable? (I understand that the hydrostatic is sealed and cannot be repaired, nor can it’s oil be changed).
3. Other than ease of use is there any reason to choose hydrostatic over gear?
3. One salesman told me that the two cylinder engine actually uses less gas than the single cylinder. Doesn’t seem quite right to me. Does it?
4. He also told me the two cylinder was quietier. True?
I’d be grateful for any comments, answers or suggestions you could give me.
Thanks,
Dennis
@Dennis,
What store told you this?
1. The techs tell me that the hydrostatics are more reliable and they have fewer repairs. The gear will cost you more over the life of the mower. Todays mowers use the belt as a clutch, and everytime you let out the clutch the belt slips a little, causing wear.
2. Plain and simple, todays transmissions are throw-aways. Yes, Sears lists parts for the Peerless and Hydro-gear trans on searspartsdirect.com. You can also get parts for most transmissions from jackssmallengines.com. But most techs will not work on them, because the labor involved of repairing a trans is usually more than a new trans.
3. Since most of the gear drive trans use the belt as the clutch, the gear drives are jerky when starting. Most of them will pop the wheels off the ground when starting in 4th gear or higher.
4. In my experience the single takes about 3/4 gallon per hour at full throttle and the twin about one gallon an hour.
5. The twins usually have less vibration than the singles. They both have government approved mufflers so they will be the same for noise. That said, the Kohler single does not have a lot of vibration. It uses a unique counterbalancer to make the engine run without much vibration. I have seen buyers return the singles because the steering wheel vibrated too much. I have not seen that with the twins.
PAUL
THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION.
RICK
PAUL
THE MOD.# 917.287240
IS A YS4500 NOT YST SRY ABOUT THAT MISTAKE ALSO IT IS A 21 HP. The year on that is a 2007
@Rick, Your tractor uses:
24903 Bagger, 24441 Blade, 24837 snow thrower, 24434 wheel weights, 24862 chains, 33746 mulch kit.
CAN YOU GIVE ME THE RATE ON THE CRAFTSMAN YTS4500 I BOUGHT A USED ONE LAST WEEK IN HAS 12 HRS ON IT LOOKS NEW. GAVE $750.00
WHAT BAGGER SHOULD I BUY FOR IT ? SEARS LISTS ONE FOR A 42/46 IN MOWER WILL IT FIT?
@ Rick, I need a little more information. The YTS4500 name has been used on a few different tractors so please post the model number (under the seat. it looks like 917.289901)
Then I can help you find the correct bagger.
I recently purchased a new 42 in. Y3000 series.
I was wondering if you or any others have used the Craftsman lift tool to raise the mower in order to change blades etc. The store didn’t have any in stock. I think it runs about 189.00. I changed my original blades to the advanced mulching blades and I think the lift would have made the job a bit easier.
@Marty,
Yes, I have used the Craftsman lift. It is a good, safe way to get under your mower and change the blades. You can use the bracket that comes with the lift or a one or two bar bumper mounted to your tractor.
You may want to consider learning how to remove the deck. It is very easy to do and after you have done it a couple of times it will only take you 60 seconds or so to take it off and a couple of minutes to put it back on. Use a flat, level surface like your garage floor and it slides right our from under the tractor.
Best Oil Filter to Use (based on efficiency and not low price)
I have an older Sears Craftsman Lawn Tractor Model 917.271080, with the Kohler Model CV-16S, 16HP engine. What is the best brand and part # oil filter cartridge for engine longevity for my tractor? Also in Southern California, is it best to use straight 30 weight oil, or 10-40 oil?
@ Larry,
I know that engine oil, oil filter and air filter are the three major components to a long engine life.
I always use the long Kohler Filter. Kohler branded oil, a heavy duty truck oil like Mobol Delvac or Shell Rotella. I have had very good luck with Mobil One.
Kohler recommends 30 wt for 50 to over 100 degrees and 10W30 for 32 degrees to over 100. They don’t recommend a 10W40.
I change oil every 100 hours in commercial machines or every fall in homeowner machines. I have never had a oil related engine failure.
I just purchased a new Sears Professional 24HP, 42″, Lawn Tractor Model #917.286710. It arrived with the deck in a level but twisted position where the left rear tire is about 4+” clear of the deck, but the right rear tire is about 1/2″- from the deck.
Should the deck be so close to the right rear tire, or is there something not right? It seems that under hilly terrain, the tire could easily rub against the deck.
A Sears technician came out to look at the tractor today and noted that the right tire was very close to the deck. His statement to me was that there is no apparent damage to the deck or it’s support arms, and that it is o.k. for the deck to be so close to the tire. He further stated that, if I should be using the tractor on hilly terrain and the tire rubs against the deck, the worst thing that will happen is that the tire tread may be scraped or some paint rubbed off the deck. This does not seem right!
I told him that I had heard that a few of the newer Craftsman tractor deck front hanger mounts were incorrectly located and welded in place. His response to me was that the condition existing on my new tractor is acceptable to him.
I have two other older Craftsman tractors and have at least 2″+ to 3″+ clearance.
Many thanks,
Larry W.
@Larry,
Did you buy this mower at a store or on-line? What I am going to suggest you do depends on where you bought it.
If you bought it on-line, call service and ask for a “seasoned tech” You may have to explain what the first tech said and state that some of the decks were welded wrong. Insist on a seasoned tech.
If you bought it at a store go there and talk to the Lawn & Garden Manager. Tell them your problem and ask that they get in contact with the district service manager. It may take a few days to contact him and set up the new appointment.
If none of these fixes work, return it and get another one. (If you just bought it you only have 30 days for return)
What is the best way to completely drain all of the old oil from my Sears MTD Yardman Self-Propelled Lawnmower Model #12A-979L401, 21″ blade, 6.5HP Briggs & Stratton Engine? Is there an engine gas or fuel filter, and if so, where is it located and what replacement part should I order. Is there an engine oil filter and if so, where is it located and what part number replacement should I order?
@ Larry,
Remove the dipstick and tip the mower over on it’s side. There is no oil drain plug. There are no fuel filters or oil filters on that machine.
First: Thank you very much for clear and concise answers to my two questions of yesterday (May 29th)!!!
Second: Instead of replacing the defective deck with the wrongly placed welded hanger mount, Sears wants to take back my new 2009 Sears Craftsman Professional 24HP, 42″, Lawn Tractor Model #917.286710. which I purchased new from Sears a few days ago. Sears wants to trade it for a new 2010 Craftsman Professional 24HP, 42″ model. Question: What are the differences between the 2009 and 2010 same models, and which of the two is a better all around unit. I noticed that the 2010 model has smaller rear tires than my new 2009 model. What other changes have been made, and are these 2010 changes an improvement over the 2009?
Thank you…Larry Weinstein
@ Larry, The only thing that is the same on your mower compared to the 2010 is the engine. The rest of the Tractor is COMPLETELY different. Your tractor is made for Sears by Husqvarna, has the same trans as the 28990 54 inch mower and has a heavier than normal deck.
The 2010 is made for Sears by MTD. It is esentially a Cub Cadet. The deck is good, and Consumer Reports rates it as well as the one you have. The transmission is a standard yard tractor trans and is not as heavy duty as the old K46 in your mower.
The biggest difference and the most important. If you purchased any attachments that mount to your tractor (like a bagger, snowthrower, or snow blade) it WILL NOT fit on the 2010. You will have to convince them to replace those also.
As far as which one is better…………it’s a Ford/Chevy thing. Some people swear by Ford’s some people swear by Chevy. Some people swear by the AYP/Husqvarna, some by MTD/Cub Cadet. I’m a Dodge man myself.
Hello Paul,
I just want to thank you for all of your excellent professional guidance and help.
Many thanks,
Larry
P.S. Have a restful, enjoyable, and safe balance of this Memorial Day weekend!
I have an older Sears Craftsman Lawn Tractor Model 917.271080, with the Kohler Model CV-16S, 16HP engine. A short while ago it just stopped dead while I was using it. It would not crank over until I removed the spark plug. Then it cranked over. I replaced the spark plug, but it just would not start. Then all of the fuel just flowed out of the gas tank, through the carburetor, and to the ground.
I replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter, put in new fuel, changed the spark plug and the same thing happened again, with all of the fuel draining out through the carburetor. Now there is also the smell of gasoline that can be detected in my engine oil when I remove the oil filler cap. What is wrong and how can I correct this problem?
Thank you.
@ Larry, This is actually an easy diagnostic. The float is stuck in your carburetor or the shut off solenoid is bad.
First, to check this out you will need something to pinch the fuel line. I use a small needle-nose Vise Grips. Pinch the fuel line shut.
On the bottom of your carburetor is a bowl. There is either just a nut holding the bowl on or a long cylinder with a wire attached.
If there is just a nut on the bottom of this bowl the float is stuck. This stuck float is allowing gas to continually run into the carb, and it is actually filling the engine cylinder with gas. Gas is thinner than oil so it leaks down around the piston rings and into your oil. CHANGE YOUR OIL BEFORE YOU START THIS ENGINE AFTER YOU HAVE THE CARB FIXED OR YOU WILL RUIN THE BEARINGS IN THE ENGINE.
Carefully remove that nut and take the bowl off. When you do this gas will leak out. Inside you will see a brass ring (float) If you lift the float up with your finger the gas will stop. You can test this further by removing the vise-grip and letting fuel flow. Most likely the float needle valve and seat has a piece of dirt stuck in it. Use a needle nose to pull the pin that holds the float, the needle valve will drop out. Clean it out with compressed air.
Reassemble and see if lifting the float stops the flow of gas. If the flow of gas does not stop the seat is bad and you will have to get a carb rebuild kit. (Sears does not have one for your engine. Any good small engine repair shop can get you one though. Bring the model and serial number of the ENGINE with you)
Second, if your carb has a long cylinder under the bowl that is called the fuel shut-off solenoid. That forces the float up when you turn the engine off. When you disassemble the carb check to make sure that part inside the bowl moves freely. The rest of the troubleshooting is the same as above.
When the float valve carburetors get to a certain age the needle valve seat drys out and most of time it needs to be replaced. Using ethanol blended fuels makes this problem worse or letting the motor sit for months or years with gas in it will also cause this. A lot of these carbs without the fuel shutoff solenoid also has a fuel shut-off valve in the gas line to guard against this.
Most of us (myself included) do not take enough care of our gas cans and filling procedures and a lot of the time when let dirt and other junk into the system. That dirt can get lodged in the float valve a keep it from working correctly.
I just purchased a new Sears Professional 24HP, 42″, Lawn Tractor Model #917.286710. It arrived with the deck in a level but twisted position where the left rear tire is about 4+” clear of the deck, but the right rear tire is touching the deck. I check my owners manual to try to get an understanding on how to properly adjust my deck…but no such luck.
I lokked for over an hour online to get a handle on how to correctly make the adjustments, but with no luck.
Is there a good service or shop manual available for this lawn tractor that I can buy, so that I can make these kind of adjustments and so I can properly service my own tractor?
@ Larry, The twisted deck is a warranty issue. Call 1-800-4MY-HOME and have a service tech fix it. There is a good possibility the front hanger (mount) is welded in the wrong place. Don’t be surprised if they replace the whole deck. I have seen 2 of these instances in the last three years and both times they just replaced the deck.
There are no manuals other than the one that came with your mower available. The techs learn this type of stuff by experience and going to a specialized small engine school. There may or not be a service bulletin the tech may have, but only the Sears techs have access to that stuff.
I have a 54″ hydro craftsman mower and it worked great the first year but when I brought it out this year I noticed that one of the axles was leaking and now the mower is much slower and gets even slower the longer I use it. I would greatly appreciate it if somebody could inform me as to what kind of fluid goes in the trans. I removed a rubber plug at the top so that I can add fluid but don’t I need to find another one or a bolt to take out so that the air can come out as I add fluid. Thanks
@Hugh,
Sears will not give you the type of fluid that goes in the trans. These units can’t get dirt inside so they only want Sears techs working on them.
Unfortunately, if you have Sears service this trans they will not fix it, they will only replace it.
I went over to mytractorforum and everyone over there agrees that the trans takes 20w50 motor oil. They got their info from the transmission manufacture not from Sears.
I got a card in the mail from lawnmowerclass.com .The lawsuit clams that the defendants “misrepresented and overstated the horsepower of their lawn mowers and lawn mower engines”
I just like to hear your opinion about this
by the way I bought the craftsman 3000 model last year
@MJA
This class action suit is one of the reasons every engine manufacture switched to torque and many are dropping all engine ratings. (MTD, Honda only states engine displacement.) I understand why the lawsuit was made, but I don’t agree that it was necessary.
The way I understand it: What got everyone in trouble was the government regulated that the tip of the blade could only travel so fast on a consumer walking mowers. This limited the rpm to about 2900 rpm for a 21 inch deck and 2750 for a 22 inch. The horsepower that was listed on the engine was rated at 3600 rpm. Person(s) felt this was misrepresenting the actual horsepower that the engine put out while cutting. No one wanted to be the first to change (lower their ratings) and that set up the lawsuit.
Engine HP was a way to compare engines that we were all familiar with it. We all knew the ratings were not quite right (How can an economy car have more horsepower than an over the road semi) but at least it made a little sense. And personally I didn’t care how much horsepower was getting to the blade or the ground. The HP rating allowed me to compare one engine to another.
Now we have no real way to tell which engine is stronger than another. CC’s (displacement) has no meaning because the design of the engine sets the power. Displacement does not.
About 10 days ago I submitted a few questions about the Revolution (#28933)after reading reviews on your site. I can not find a reply. Questions were do you think the manufacturer will correct the issues with consistency in Quality Control ( everybody either loves or hates this model – no in between ), rear pins to allow manual rolling, noise of unit, and I believe starter issues. I have seen one of these at a Sears outlet store with only 8 hours and only “defect” a few small scratches on head light lenses. Please let me know if there is anything else I need to do. Do I need to subscribe to RSS feed ? Thanks !! ! !!
@ Chester,
Somehow my website did not send your questions. (stupid computers!) I got them this time!
The Revolution is alive and well. Sears was displaying it at the National Builder’s show this month. I don’t have any answers though on what changes they have made to the 2010 models. I won’t have those answers for at least another three weeks.
The 2009 models you see at the outlet stores (my sears has 5) have all had a “fix” for the transmission release levers. The problem was when you pulled on the lever to release the transmission too hard the spring would break. Even after the fix, to move the unit, you still need to pull the levers and then push down on the forward pedal. It then free-wheels easily. This is different than the freewheel on hydros and it has caused a lot of confusion by the uneducated (even the Sears employees don’t all know how to move it)
Between you and me, I would wait until the outlet unit gets down to $1500 or so before you buy it and then buy the 3 year protection plan ($500) I have seen a few get down to $900 before someone finally buys it. The Protection Plan will insure that Sears will keep the unit running or give you your money back for three years.
The Infinitrak transmissions will continue to evolve. The parent company of the Infinitrak venture with MTD is committed to getting into the low power lawn and garden area (they make high horsepower CVT units, racing units, and the ToroTrak CVT is even in the Harrior Jet)
MTD is going to use a single version of the Infinitrak (the Revolution uses two) in the Cub Cadet LTX1046. I am assuming they have the noise issue worked out in the LTX. If the one you buy is noisy, get a tech out there. If they say “that’s the way it is supposed to sound” let me know and I’ll tell you how to escalate the repair to get the trans fixed or replaced.
I don’t know where you live, but in any case get out and drive it, drive it around town if you have to and make sure you are happy with the unit. Since that one had 8 hours on it, I am going to assume most of the problems have been worked out of that particular unit.
Let me know what you do. Thanks, Paul