I put together a short video of a Husqvarna Articulating Riding Mower and how maneuverable it is.
by: Paul Sikkema
You have heard all of the advertising hype this year about how zero-turn mowers can save you time. But you have also heard all the horror stories of how they are hard to use, don’t work well on hills, and will tear up your lawn.
Most of the horror stories are true. Residential zero-turn mowers will tear up your lawn if you don’t have lots of practice, they can be unsafe to mow on slopes and are expensive compared to a lawn tractor with the same mowing deck.
This video shows a different type of zero-turn. An alternative that is easy to use, drives just like your lawn tractor, works well on hills and has a better deck than most of the residential zero-turn mowers currently on the market.
For most homeowners who want a zero-turn but don’t want the headaches that go with them this is a great alternative.
The Husqvarna Riders Offer Unique Advantages
With the front-mounted cutting deck, you have complete control over your mowing area. You can easily see were you are mowing and the deck allows you to reach under bushes and get closer to fences and walls. The unparalleled maneuverability of the articulated steering lets you mow inside corners and inside curves without backing up. The steering makes the riders extremely easy to handle. You can drive one the first time and not worry about wrecking your lawn, landscaping or the side of the garage. The deck is a “ground hugging” deck. It follows the ground contours exactly to give you a perfect cut everytime.
My front lawn is very uneven. I intentionally designed in dips, mounds and slopes to give it character. But after I built it I realized a 42 inch or larger lawn tractor can’t mow it without gouging and scalping the lawns in a dozen places. I used the Husqvarna in the video to mow it and there is not one gouge or scalp in the entire lawn. If you want the perfect lawn, ground hugging decks like these are the way to go.
My 1999 Huqvarna 970 Rider
The optional BioClip Combi Deck is one of the best mulching decks available. You can use rear discharge for longer grass. The BioClip is especially suitable for well-maintained lawns that are mowed often. The finely cut clippings return to the lawn as fertilizer.
If your lawn gets slippery or is too steep for a lawn tractor in places the AWD (All-Wheel Drive) model is a great investment.
The Articulated Rider will handle most of the attachments you are used to. A sweeper, dethatcher, scarifier, spreader and trailer for lawn work. The R 220T and R 322T will handle a snow blade, a snow blower or a front-mounted brush to clear entrances and paths year around. You can easily switch the front mounted attachments.
The Articulated Rider is a zero-turn mower that will handle all you lawn tasks. You work more efficiently, and get perfect results faster, with less effort. In addition, a wide range of accessories helps you complete other garden tasks all year round. With or without All-Wheel Drive – the decision is yours.
You can buy the R 120S here with free shipping: Husqvarna 967181801 R120S Articulating Riding Mower, 42-Inch
Husqvarna also offers 2 other models with your choice of decks. These are dealer only models.
Read about the R 220T and R 322T here: Husqvarna Articulating Riders Discover the full potential of a Husqvarna Rider here: Husqvarna Articulating Riders




cave in IllinoisMark
Hi Paul,
I did look at the rocker adjustments on my rider and one exhaust valve was at .014!! I checked them all on both sides and brought them back to within .040 – .060, mfg spec. My main problem ended up being a dirty carb. I also swapped out the plastic manifold for the metal one, think it’s aluminum.
Question’s: Does this Husquvarna 20 Hp endurance engine have actual bearings inside, or is it all bushings?
Is it normal to hear a little “knock” or “slap” sound from what would be the “bottom” if it were a horizontal shaft engine? I.e. The side nearest the seat on the rider. You can hear it mostly during idle.
Paul
Hi Mark, I’m going to guess it has bushings. It’s basically a B&S Intek engine.
It is normal for these vertical shaft engines to have a little knock – especially at idle. Even the Kohler and Kawasaki engines will have it.
Mark
Thanks Paul,
I seemed to remember I’d did that before all this recent trouble. It mows very strong now and actually seems a little quicker than it was. I was shocked, when adjusting the rockers, there was one locking nut that was so loose I could move it with my fingers.
Mark
Hi Paul,
Did you ever determine if Husqvarna has stopped shipping the R322T to the US?
Paul
Hi Mark, Yes, the R322T is no longer available in the U.S.
Mark
Paul, thanks for confirming. I guess I better get a stash of spare parts going! Do you have any thoughts on which ones would be best to have on hand. I was thinking about the steering cables, and the mid-frame idler pulleys as the most unique parts that could fail first.
Paul
Hi Mark, The idler pulleys, yes. I’ve never seen one with broken steering cables though. I had one that was 20 years old that I have to tighten once – but never a broken one.
Mark
Hi Paul,
I’ve just started having an issue with the B&S 20HP V-twin (40S877-0010-G1) on my rider and wondered if you had suggestions. It has, just last night, started backfiring a lot. Last year (season) I put new spark plugs in it, it ran ok after that, last year. Once it started this backfiring I changed the fuel filter and also the air cleaner, for good measure. I also added the appropriate amount of Sea Foam to the fuel, 3.5 oz. At one point it was backfiring so much that the muffler got hot enough to make the paint on the muffler shroud smoke. I noticed that choking it back to about 3/4 choked seemed to cure the issue. It ran ok and cooled down.
I’m wondering, do I have a bad spark Plug? I cant imagine that the flywheel key is partially sheared or it wouldn’t start, right? It does start normally and runs ok until it gets hot.
Paul
Hi Mark, I’m wondering if the valves need to be adjusted. That’s a common problem with the Briggs engines.
Mark
Thanks for the advice, do you know what the feeler gauge/adjustment gap for this engine is?
Paul
Hi Mark, no I don’t. I suggest going to the engine manufacturer’s website. If that doesn’t work try Googling it.
Mark
Hi Paul,
Just recently hearing that Husqvarna will stop shipping any riders to the US after 2020. Heard it?
Mark
Paul
Hi Mark, No, But I’m not surprised. The rider is the most popular mower in Europe but it’s never taken off here in the U.S. We are addicted to the mid-mount ZTR.
I’ll verify with Husqvarna in October.
Mark
Yeah, that’s for sure. If the folding ZTR’s were around when I bought the rider I might have considered one. My main reason for the rider was easy deck access.
Al LeSage
Paul I found the easy solution just pull the clip pins on the lift chains so you do not have to lift the whole deck and the silver handle just engages the mower and the safety switches still work
Al LeSage
THANKS for replying I did that those springs only adjust the float it did not affect the lift there is a big spring underneath the unit for the lift assist but it does not have any adjustments I would like to have advise on what wires to cut and install a switch there it a switch connected to the lift lever with 3 wires a yellow. and 2 green wires BUT I AM UNCERTAIN WHICH WIRE TO CUT INTO IT WOULD BE REAL SIMPLE TO DO JUST THAT AND PUT A SWITCG ON THE PANEL THANKS AL
Paul
Hi Al, I’ll bet that is a safety switch – not the engage switch.That machine uses a manual engage. I can’t/won’t show you how to disable a safety switch.
Marty
Paul – you wouldn’t have a quick picture of the adjustment?…weird that two different mowers have the same exact problem…
thanks,
Paul
Hi Marty, Creep is very common with hydro transmissions. Why? because there is no actual neutral in the trans – there is just a spot on a valve where it switches from forward flow to reverse flow. The cable on the Husqvarna Riders is a very quality cable so it does not wear ( my cables are almost 20 years old) but the transmission itself does wear a little when it new. It will also wear a little over the next 20 years so every so often you will have to adjust the neutral. There is a cable adjustment at the trans. Pull the cover from between the rear wheels and you can see where you can adjust the cable.
Take the right footrest off and you can see in addition the forward/reverse pedals are all one lever. There is a little play in that which can cause the whole mechanism to stick. That makes it look like the trans is creeping but it’s just inertia/sticking. A little silicone grease sprayed there helps.
Duane
Hello I previously owned a Bolens articulator which I loved and have been looking for another for years. Just the other day I checked out a Craigslist ad for 500 and found a near perfect condition rider 16 which I bought with a huge smile. Once home I cleaned it, serviced it, and it runs perfect, cuts awesome, way way way better than a zero turn. It’s easy on the lawn, pulls my sweeper dethatcher, and Wagon great unlike a zero turn. I have bought and sold several tractors this year mainly cub cadets and John deere tractors but I would turn down a 2000 offer for this awesome mower. I’m keeping it and selling my John deere. I might even sell my push mower as a string trimmer is all I need with this as it works that well. Best mower I have ever owned and I will never sell this. Quality Ingenuity and Reliability GREAT MOWER!
Vern Herzberger
King City, MO. I have a new R322T AWD Husqvarna Articulating mower with Combi 103(41″) Deck, twin 20HP Briggs. I’ve yet to hear the engine grunt. It’ll go about anywhere. I have a bank near the road that I can mow down to the ditch and then back right back up the bank. Amazing I’m guessing my yard to be about 1 acre when I include the pond dam. . I also mow an acre Cemetery and just love the deck that allows me to trim with either side. I get lots of comments about ho great the cemetery looks. They’ve even asked if I fertilize, which I don’t. I’m a believer in mowing often and high enough to not see clippings.
The very best feature is the 20 seconds it takes to tip up or down the deck for service or cleaning. The belt was snug the first time but if you’re a Farm Boy like me you can start the belt on the edge of the pulley and rotate the belt right off. Move the mowing height rod, then pull the deck forward and up. Cool feature. I only have 40 hours on it so far, but it’s a keeper for me.
I got my education with a rider 16(also an articulating Husqvarna Mower) that had the timed blades and needed more traction. But I loved how it mowed and since it was a 2002 model nothing seemed worn out. It also had a tip up deck, but was more complicated than the newer 220 and 322. I wouldn’t recommend the 120 at all. I still don’t under stand why more folks aren’t buying these types of mowers. I hated the Zero turns I tried. Tore up my yard and rode so rough that I couldn’t stay in the seat. If you come by King City, stop in I’ll give you a demo on a FUN Machine!.
Paul
Hi Vern, Yes, the American public has never seemed to like the articulated riders. Over in Europe they are the most popular and the Europeans won’t even look at our mid-mount ZTRs. I have two old 970’s myself from 2000 or so and they just keep going every week. I wish I could afford the 4WD.
You are correct. At $1999 the 120 is a good buy but it is nothing like the 220 or 322.
Marty
Bought a R322T end of August 2016. It has a forward creep that only stops if you hit the reverse pedal. Noticed after 6 hours of use. Husqvarna replaced with a brand new one…same thing. Hoping to get my money back.
Paul
Hi Marty, that is a simple cable adjustment back where it attaches to the trans. It’s very normal for a cable type linkage. Pull the cover off by the rear wheels and adjust it yourself.
Vern Herzberger
Just use the brake with your left foot. It’ll stop. Then go on forward or backwards. I creep right up to cemetery stones and never hit them by just using the brake and of course I have already taken my foot off of the for=ward pedal.