This article looks at the 2020 Husqvarna Lawn and Garden Tractors.
Lawn tractors and garden tractors are disappearing from the U.S. because zero-turn mowers are taking over. That said, Husqvarna has updated their lawn & garden tractors with the features you want and streamlined the model line-up to make them a lot easier to understand.
I rate products differently than most sites. I not only look at the number of products, the price, the craftsmanship, and the quality of cut but also the dealers, ease of warranty service, and parts networks that support the product.
This article will discuss:
- Features that make Husqvarna a good value.
- Do You need a Lawn or Garden Tractor?
- 100 or 200 or 300 series tractors?
- The Tractors – By Deck Size
Features that make Husqvarna the best value.
Engines: For 2020 Husqvarna is keeping it simple. Just two of the most reliable engines on the market.
- Briggs & Stratton Endurance: Offered on the 100 series, this is a solid step up from the Briggs InTek engines found in other brands. This engine has a full pressure oil pump with internal oil porting to the critical components inside the crankcase. This engine can handle extended use mowing slopes and ditches without the fear of throwing a connecting rod. This engine is similar to the very reliable Sears Craftsman Platinum engine that everyone liked.
- EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection.) Husqvarna is not offering any lawn or garden tractors with EFI for 2020.
- Kawasaki FR: Offered on the 200 & 300 series. The Kaw FR has the best reputation for residential engines on the market. It’s a great, solid engine. It’s reliable, fuel-efficient, and will last you the life of the Husqvarna tractors.
Transmissions. Transmissions define what you can pull and how well the mower will last mowing slopes. Husqvarna uses only three transmissions and they are matched correctly to the lawn/garden tractor and what you expect the tractor to do. Husqvarna only offers hydrostatic transmissions. They do not offer cheap CVT or gear drives.
- CVT. For reference: Commonly used in Riding mowers under $1600. Husqvarna is not using a CVT transmission (black case) in any of the 2020 models. Craftsman, Troy-Bilt, and John Deere use this in their least expensive models.
- TL200. For reference: Commonly used in riding mowers and tractors with 42-46 inch decks. Husqvarna is not using them in any of the 2020 mowers. This economical transmission is designed for mowing and light-duty pulling. You can pull a small yard cart, sprayer, dethatcher, etc.
- K46. Commonly used in Lawn/Yard Tractors. This is the “standard” transmission for lawn tractors with 42-50 inch decks and 18-20 inch rear tires. It is used in more lawn tractors than any other transmission. This transmission will handle mowing slopes, pulling larger yard carts, and lawn rollers. Husqvarna properly uses this transmission in the 100 and 200 series tractors.
- K46D. We have been asking for this transmission in a 42-48 inch mower for years. I am so excited that Husqvarna has listened and is now offering the K46D with automatic locking differential in a 42, 46, and 48-inch size.
- K58. Commonly used in Garden Tractors. This is an economical heavy-duty transmission designed to handle any size deck and pull ground engaging equipment. This transmission uses one-inch axles so it will handle more weight and is a great choice if you want to add a mounted snowblower. (John Deere uses the K57 which has lighter 3/4 inch axles)
- K66D. Heavy-Duty Garden Tractors. This is the heaviest-duty transmission available for garden tractors with a vertical shaft engine. It is slightly heavier-duty than the K62 used by other brands. The K66 has been around for a long time and considered “bullet-proof” compared to all the other transmissions currently on the market for lawn & garden tractors. The K66D has the electronic locking differential.
Differential Lock: Husqvarna offers more models with Automatic, manual, or electric “diff” lock than any other brand. If you have wet areas to mow, slopes that can get slippery, use a snow/dozer blade or want to mount a snowblower a tractor with a diff lock is a must-have. Differential lock puts power to both rear wheels to give you more traction in wet conditions and slopes. It allows you to push more snow with a snow blade and is a must-have if you want to attach a front-mounted snowblower. Husqvarna is the ONLY brand to offer automatic diff lock on mowers with 42, 46, and 48-inch decks!
Frame.
Husqvarna uses two different frames.
100 series. Husqvarna uses a strong, channel style frame for the 100 series lawn tractors. It a solid frame and I don’t expect you to have any problems with it cracking over the years.
200 & 300 Series. Husqvarna uses a fully welded, ladder style frame for the 200 & 300 series lawn tractors. It is a stronger than the frame used on the 100 series.
Decks.
Consistent quality cut. Brackets on the decks on all models allow you to easily remove the deck for cleaning, blade sharpening, and maintenance.
- Stamped: Husqvarna’s stamped decks give you a consistent, quality cut. and features Husqvarna’s Air Induction Mowing Technology. Air is drawn from the top and bottom of the deck, improving grass lift and delivering a superior cut. They also bag and mulch well. All of the stamped decks this year include the bottom reinforcement plates to give the deck extra strength. Husqvarna is the only brand that still offers a 3-bin bagger for the 42 and 46-inch decks.
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ClearCut™ fabricated cutting deck. Most zero-turn mowers have switched to fabricated decks because most ZTRs mow faster than lawn tractors and fabricated decks are stronger and will take more punishment when hitting trees, posts, and foundations. Husqvarna has added their ClearCut fabricated decks cut well and most people can’t see the difference between these decks and a stamped deck’s cut quality,
The new fabricated design features welded 10 gauge steel construction with additional welded reinforcement strips for maximum durability
Accessories: Husqvarna has a large selection of accessories and attachments for your lawn and garden tractor including snow blowers and a dozer blade for the 300 series. In addition, they will pull the thousands of attachments from Agri-Fab, Ohio Steel, and others.
If you want a “cheap” mower – Go somewhere else.
Cheap Riding Mowers: Riding mowers are generally cheap lawn mowers that are sold to customers that just want the “cheapest” riding lawn mower they can buy. In today’s dollars that is most riding mowers under $1500. Yes, they will cut the grass but don’t expect them to cut well and last more than a few years. Husqvarna has wisely decided to get out of this portion of the market for 2020.
LGT or Cheap Garden Tractors. A Cheap Garden tractor is basically a tractor with large, 23-24 inch rear tires, a big, 54-inch deck and the K46 – lawn tractor transmission. They were/are priced between $1900-$2500 and look like a “heck of a deal.” Husqvarna called them “LGT” or light garden tractors they have proven to be a waste of your money because no matter who made it the transmissions failed, the frames cracked and they typically didn’t last more than 5 years. Husqvarna has wisely decided to get out of this portion of the market for 2020.
Do You need a 100 or 200 or 300 Series?
100 series Lawn Tractors. The 100 series is designed to mow your lawn and pull small yard carts, dethatchers, sprayers, and leaf rakes. They will handle hills well when equipped with 42-48 inch decks. They use the industry-standard K46 transmission so you can expect a long life. They will last years on your “typical” suburban or city lot up to 3 acres. Most of us will be quite happy with this style and durability.
The 200 series is a solid step up and gives you better engines, stronger frames, and more transmission options. The 200 series includes locking differential on many models, Kawasaki engines, and two models with larger tires and the heavy-duty ground engaging K58 transmission.
300 series Garden Tractors. The 300 series is designed to handle mounted snowblowers well, pull large yard carts full of material, and pull grading rakes for gravel driveways and horse arenas. They can push dirt/gravel with a front-mounted blade. The heavy-duty K66 transmission with the electronic locking differential gives you the most traction available in a garden tractor. The larger front and rear wheels give you a better ride on rough lawns and better traction on slopes. The 300 series is available with 48 or 54-inch decks.
Quick Summary of the New TS Models?
- For 2020 Husqvarna has completely refreshed the lawn and garden tractor lines.
- All TS models feature an all-new hood with focused LED headlamps.
- All TS models feature cast-iron front axles.
- All 200 and 300 series models feature Husqvarna’s Clear Cut deck.
- Features not found on other lawn tractors:
- K46 transmission in all 42-inch mowers
- Commercial Grade Hydrostatic Transmission in the 300 series
- Kawasaki FR engines or Briggs & Stratton Endurance. All engines are full pressure lubrication for long life working on slopes
100 Series Husqvarna Lawn Tractors
TS 142
- Pedal-operated Automatic transmission (Hydrostatic)
- Manual blade engagement
- Reinforced Cutting Deck
- Deluxe comfort seat
- From $1,799.99 MSRP
Buy here from Tractor Supply Co. or your local Husqvarna Dealer.
TS 142X
- Pedal-operated Automatic transmission (Hydrostatic)
- Manual blade engagement
- Reinforced Cutting Deck
- Deluxe comfort seat
- From $1,999.99 MSRP
Buy here from Tractor Supply Co. or your local Husqvarna Dealer.
TS 146X
- Pedal-operated Automatic transmission (Hydrostatic)
- Chokeless start
- Reinforced Cutting Deck
- Deluxe comfort seat
- From $1,999.99 MSRP
Buy here from Tractor Supply Co. or your local Husqvarna Dealer.
TS 146XD
- Automatic locking differential
- Pedal-operated Automatic transmission (Hydrostatic)
- Manual blade engagement
- Reinforced Cutting Deck
- From $2,299.99 MSRP
Buy here from Tractor Supply Co. or your local Husqvarna Dealer.
TS 148X
- Electric Blade Engagement
- Pedal-operated Automatic transmission (Hydrostatic)
- Reinforced Cutting Deck
- Deluxe comfort seat
- Deluxe steering wheel
- From $2,299.99 MSRP
Buy here from Tractor Supply Co. or your local Husqvarna Dealer.
200 Series Husqvarna Yard and Garden Tractors
Stronger frame than 100 series
TS 242XD
- Dual pedal drive
- Electric Blade Engagement
- ClearCut™ fabricated cutting deck
- Deluxe comfort seat
- From $2,799.99 MSRP
TS 248XD
- Dual pedal drive
- Electric Blade Engagement
- Electric blade engagement
- ClearCut™ fabricated cutting deck
- From $2,999.99 MSRP
Buy here from Tractor Supply Co. or your local Husqvarna Dealer.
TS 248G
- Dual pedal drive
- Electric Blade Engagement
- ClearCut™ fabricated cutting deck
- Deluxe comfort seat
- From $3.099.99 MSRP
Buy here from Tractor Supply Co. or your local Husqvarna Dealer.
TS 254XG
- Dual pedal drive
- Electric Blade Engagement
- ClearCut™ fabricated cutting deck
- Deluxe comfort seat
- From $3,399.99 MSRP
Buy here from Tractor Supply Co. or your local Husqvarna Dealer.
300 Series Husqvarna Garden Tractors
TS 348XD
- ClearCut™ fabricated cutting deck
- High Back Seat
- Deluxe steering wheel
- Steel hood
- From $3,599.99 MSRP
Buy here from your local Husqvarna Dealer.
TS 354XD
- ClearCut™ fabricated cutting deck
- High Back Seat
- Deluxe steering wheel
- Steel hood
- From $3,899.99 MSRP
Buy here from your local Husqvarna Dealer.
TS 354D
- ClearCut™ fabricated cutting deck
- Electric Blade Engagement
- Hydrostatic transmission with locking differential
- Pedal-operated hydrostatic transmission
- From $3,699.99 MSRP
Buy here from your local Husqvarna Dealer.
David
Hi Paul,
Good info here, nice to find someone with enthusiasm for product information.
We have a ~ 2011 Husqvarna YTH24V42LS lawn tractor. FR691 23 HP Kawasaki, K46R differential, 3-blade fabbed deck (i think a one year only option). Appears it is a limited slip differential, was this exclusive to Husqvarna at the time?
Anyhow, we’ve cracked the rear frame section which can be replaced as a bolt-on item called “drawbar”. The K46 seems to be ok, but if I have to replace it, then I think money towards a new mower would be wise. I’ve read ZT, and stand-on specs until my eyes have blurred.
At the end of the day, if we had to replace it, we’d want exactly what we have except it’s not made anymore. We pull a small wagon for limbs and such, we enjoy the limited slip capabilities and love the power of the big Kawasaki.
2 acres, tree roots, flowerbeds, a couple of rolling hills, one large field and many obstacles. A Bradley 36 Stander really appeals but I can’t pull the wagon of course. Cub XT2 LX42 gets close but no Kawasaki, and no limited slip. The 42 size has more to do with our storage area, and occasional tight mowing spaces than anything else.
To make matters worse, I have an Ariens Ikon XD42 high on the list, add a hitch, but my primary mower “driver” just didn’t take to the ZT test drive.
What’s a fellow to do? Go Cub and forget the locking differential or stay with the Kawasaki?
Best,
David
Paul
Hi David, The good news is the part is less than $50 and 3-4 hours of work. The hardest part may be getting the rear wheels off the axe but you can still change it out if you can’t get them off. I suggest removing the deck and then put the tractor up on a sturdy table. Use a couple of jack stands to hold the rear frame in front of the wheels. The members over at mytractorforum.com can help.
Yes, Husqvarna was the only brand that used the K46R with the diff lock. Cub Cadet and Husqvarna did have K66’s with the diff lock back then.
Replacement: 1. Cub Cadet had the Cub Cadet XT3 GSX. It was a true garden tractor and had a cast-iron hydro with diff lock, a 25-horse Kohler commercial engine, and heavy-duty everything. Stopped selling them in 2022 but you can still find them at Cub Cadet dealers. Just search Cub Cadet XT3 GSX for sale.
2. If you really want a ZTR but don’t want lap bars the best choice right now is the Cub Cadet ZTS1 42. It can pull stuff and the way the steering works it will have the same traction as your K46 with the diff lock. Both transmissions are tied together so both give you traction on hills and pulling loads (no differential) (I’m actually considering the ZTS2 50 for my father because he has road ditches to mow.
Check it out here: Cub Cadet ZTS 1 42
David
Hi Paul,
Followed your advice and replaced the rear frame section on the Husqvarna YTH24V42LS lawn tractor. Mower working pretty well, but K46 getting a bit “whiney”, so I think it’s a matter of time.
Looking at Gravely ZT-XL 42″ deck for ZT-2800 transmissions, but Ariens Ikon Select has most everything else covered but in ZT-2200 (semi-serviceable).for around $ 1K less and in my budget.
Coming from a 2011 era Husqvarna K46 and occasional Troy Bilt yard cart towing, am I missing anything by not stepping up to the ZT-2800’s? Also had a Bobcat ZT-2000 in the running, but I really like the new design upgrades on the Ariens/Gravely which you have reviewed elsewhere.
Thanks again,
David
Rick
Paul, thank you for your excellent website. I have a small berry farm on 1.5 acres and need a 38-42 inch rider that will fit between the rows. Sometimes I have heavy weeds, sometimes a 2-300 lb cart so I am leery of the K46 trans. Please clarify what trans the TS 242 XD has. Looks like it will either be this or the 42″ Craftsman 7 speed gear mower. What is your opinion? Thanks.
Paul
Hi Rick, First the Craftsman is not a gear drive. It does not have a transmission with gears. It is simply a CVT. (two, variable cones connected with a v-belt like a snowmobile tranny) The “shift” is just notches in the dash for the speed lever. It’s the same tranny as in the other cheap Craftsman tractors that use the foot pedal to control the speed. \
There are NO gear drive lawn tractors on the market right now.
The TS 242XD has a K46 with an automatic locking differential.
If you are mowing between rows and have heavy, tall weeds you are better off with a AS 940 Sherpa 4WD XL, pulling and high weed mower behind an old lawn tractor (or ATV) like the Rough Cut Mower AcrEase Model MR44B or a walk-behind brush cutter.
Paul Strauss
Hey Paul thanks for your website. You helped me buy my last mower and you’re helping buy my next. I have about an acre tomorrow. I’m torn between a John Deere s170 48” and aHusqvarna 242XD. They’re close enough to the same price. I have a little bit of hilly and swampy areas tomorrow so leaning towards the locking differential 242XD. Which one would you buy? Larger deck maybe a little less quality in the John Deere or higher quality smaller deck and 242XD?
Paul
Hi Paul, tough choice. The John Deere and the Husqvarna have the same K46 transmission with the 242XD having the optional automatic locking differential.
The John Deere has a better cutting deck and larger tires. The larger tires will help in the soft areas over the smaller rear tires on the Husqvarna.
If you have had no real issues going up your hills with your previous mowers the John Deere will do the job as well or better.
Lance Piper
Hi Paul,I currently have a JD X380,48 in deck.Unit cuts fine, however,I have a hill in the back yard.When I start cutting I can climb hill just fine, then after about 5 to 6 rounds, tractor starts to slow down coming up hill.When I finished cutting last week,I tried to come up hill at round one of my course, deck off, tractor stopped about half way up.I believe that the transmission is getting to hot.By the way, this is either 3rd or 4th tranny since new.Now out of warranty and they want me to buy a bigger rider, now saying my hill might be too large.Great JD story or no
Paul
Hi Lance, The current X380 does have a heavy-duty K58 transmission. That tranny is rated for ground-engaging work and slopes up to 15 degrees. If your slope is steeper than that you will need a tractor with a heavier duty transmission. Unfortunately you will have to go to an X500 series to get the stronger transmission.
Lance Piper
Thank you for your feedback.I’ve owned a JD185,GT 235 and now the X380.Always felt tire size was important on the hill.Both prior mowers had no problems with the tranny’s,never thought about it when buying X380.The X380 has a heat problem I believe, it cannot dissipate the heat fast enough.
BB
Hi, Excellent website and very informative! Acre lot with hills and trees, light mulching and hauling stuff around the yard. John Deer or Husqvarna (100 series for both)? Concerned about the engines B&S or Kholer? More specifically 1cyl vs V2. thinking E130 or TS142. thanks,
Paul
Hi BB, I prefer the V-twin engines. They run a lot smoother and have more torque for mowing thick grass. I also prefer the John Deere over the 100 series Husqvarna. You get better service from a Deere dealer and parts are more available if you need some.
Scott
Hey Paul,
I just moved onto 5 acres with around 2 acres that need mowing, so I’m looking to purchase a new riding mower. I have a decent hill for at least one of those acres, so I’ve decided that I need to avoid the lower end models and really could benefit from a transmission upgrade. I started with a budget of $1500, quickly moved to $2500 due to the hill. Once I started looking at nicer models, I realized that I could upgrade to a garden tractor with a little extra money. I don’t see myself ever using this beyond the manufacturers listed capabilities, such as front scoops, box scrapes, dump trailers, etc. I didn’t realize that this category of machine existed, and now it is hard to see life without one.
I first found the TS348XD for $3600. Seemingly the best feature/price value by a good margin. But then I couldn’t escape from the endless tractor forums with pictures of a warped frame. At first I thought it was just from obvious overuse of aftermarket equipment, but then people were saying that the frame warped from hitting a pothole. I loved that tractor, but I kept looking.
I found your website and decided to take a look at Cub Cadet. Comparing the TS348XD to the XT2 GX50D is reasonable and seemed like an easy switch. However, the XT1 GT50 is only $2900, and maybe a tractor with the K58 would be enough for me. However, most of the heavier duty attachments require a XT2 for some reason, and one of those models was mostly an engine switch away from being an XT1. I decided to call the dealership to get some clarity. The dealership quietly warned against using any attachments on a lawn mower, regardless of its garden tractor distinction. Basically implying that having a nicer mower would be the only advantage of buying an XT2 and that neither really needed to be used for anything but mowing and/or hauling a small trailer.
Now I am questioning if its even worth getting a garden tractor at all, and if I just need to get a good enough mower. I decided to visit the Husqvarna dealership to clarify some of the TS348XD’s drawbacks. He had never heard of a frame issue and immediately called his rep to investigate the reputation. I’m waiting on more info.
So for my questions…
You mention that you love the TS348XD, and that the frame is solid, but still may eventually crack. Is this still true for the type of work I’m talking about doing? Nothing more than using the brand’s offered attachments? You didn’t mention warping, and I’m trying to ignore the rants of angry customers who really wanted a SCUT for $3600. If it’s used properly, is the frame heavy duty enough?
Would the XT1-GT50 and K58 be good enough for the “ground engaging” attachments? I was told that the sleeve hitch wan’t compatible on the XT1 (hard to believe actually) and that using it would void the warranty. This may kill the GT50 idea, even if it’s actually capable, but its also is a deal breaker for Cub Cadet. I’m worried that their definition of proper use may be mowing grass only.
Is the XT2-GX50D the solution? What is the main advantage of this over the TS348XD, assuming both frames will hold up? Is it capable enough to warrant $4000? Do it’s limitations extend beyond the attachments that CC offers? i.e. Brinly or Agrifab type stuff? or maybe even Johnny products like the bucket or the hitch? If it’s as good as you imply, then I shouldn’t need a warranty, right?
Is there any truth that this entire garden tractor category is really just a sales gimmick to get people to overpay for useless upgrades? Are we all just asking too much for a super lawn mower and/or baby tractor?
Paul
Hi Scott, Two things you never ask a dealer. 1. How does your mower compare to the competitors down the street. 2. If his mower has problems – especially if you read it on the web. Of course “he never heard of it!” Bonus number 3. Never call a dealer and expect an answer you can actually use. You’re either going to get some kid who just started there or… just remember, it’s hard to tell if they are lying when talking on the phone.
By the way, does the Cub Cadet dealer also sell farm equipment? He really wants you to buy a $12-18,000 sub-compact tractor instead of what you actually need.
What is a Garden Tractor? Originally Garden Tractors in the ’60s-’80s were built out of I-beams or thick c-channel iron. The transmissions and front axles were cast iron. They had lots of attachments and were hard to break. They used horizontal shaft engines and many had driveshafts from the engine to the transmission. In the ’90s the industry switched to vertical shaft engines, stamped frames, and aluminum transmissions. They still classified the higher-end models as GTs and they do have stronger frames than the lawn and yard tractors. But- not near as strong as the old horizontal shaft ones.
The TS300 series Husqvarna and the XT1, XT2 GT Cub Cadets are classified as garden tractors. What that means is the transmissions (K57, K58, and K62) are strong enough to pull heavy loads like a fully loaded yard cart, a trailer-mounted leaf vac, and anything that will fit on the sleeve hitch. They will also handle a 50-inch front-mounted snowblower, a dozer blade, and a front scoop – as long as the material you are moving with the blade/scoop is loose – like pulverized dirt or mulch. (I don’t recommend a Johnny Bucket on today’s tractors)
If you want to do more than that you should move up to the XT3 Cub Cadet. (I consider the XT3 as a heavy-duty garden tractor. It’s built like the old machines back in the 60-80’s)
If you want to excavate dirt – dig a hole for a sidewalk, etc., or load dirt into a yard cart then you should move up another step to a sub-compact.
As far as I can tell the TS348 uses the same, basic stamped frame that Husqvarna has been using on the GT for years. It’s designed to have some flex in it and that’s so the tractor rides better and mows better. But, if your lawn is rough or you decide to use heavy front attachments like the 50-inch snowblower or a Johnny Bucket and then get rough with the machine the frame will crack or twist. Husqvarna has sold hundreds of thousands of tractors with this frame under the Husqvarna, Poulan Pro, and Sears Craftsman names and yes, there have been thousands of the frames warrantied. But in almost all cases the owners were really abusing their equipment. I remember one example where an owner was pulling 1000 lb+ loads of firewood out of a timber – over roots, fallen logs, etc. and he complained the frame bent after the second year. You get my point.
Husqvarna uses a lighter frame for the other series tractors.
Cub Cadet was smart when they rebuilt the line in 2018. They now use one heavy-duty frame for ALL the XT1 and XT2 tractors. The frame is stiff and won’t twist like the Husqvarna frame. So, as long as you get the K58 or K62 transmission the tractor will do the work you want it to do and hold up to lots of abuse.
I have no clue why the sleeve hitch won’t fit on the XT1. I’ll bet if you take a picture of the rear of both tractors they will look the same.
Although the XT1 GT50 and the XT2 GT50 appear the same there is a lot of differences. The XT2 is worth the extra money – If you want to spend it. The XT2 has 4 ply tires that last much longer than the 2 ply on the XT1. The 4-ply tires also handle heavier loads. You also get ball-bearing front wheels which also help carry heavier front loads. Better seat and bigger front bumper. The Kawasaki is the engine everyone wants right now – it is a good engine that will last the life of the tractor. The BIGGEST thing though is the XT1 has a stamped deck and the XT@ has the areoforce fabricated deck. The fabricated Cub Cadet deck is a lot tougher and is one of the best cutting decks on a tractor. (a lot better than the Husqvarna deck)
I think I answered all your questions – Whew! you wore me out 🙂
Kenny Grant
Have been looking for a garden tractor that will pull or push and mow with a 54 inch mower.
John Deere x380 is very expensive for just mowing. Do you think it will handle heavy trailer and front blade?
Paul
Hi Kenny, Yes the X380 will handle a heavy trailer and front snow blade. It has the K58 Garden Tractor transmission in it.
Blaise
Hello Paul,
I have heard of frame failures with Husqvarna’s new TS300 series riding mowers. seems as though the C Channel frame in the TS100 series is in fact stronger than the Pan style frame found in the 200 and 300 series. Why wouldnt Husqvarna put the stronger chassis where its needed, in the TS 300 series, this is the only thing that is keeping me from buying that mower. Do you know if Husqvarna is planing on upgrading to a stronger frame? Ca
Paul
Hi Blaise, The TS100 series frame has always been used on the lawn/yard tractor series. It’s the same basic frame that has been on the Husqvarna/Craftsman/Ariens/Poulan Pro for many years. It’s a tough frame as long as you don’t put a snowblower and rear weights on it.
The only change the TS200 and TS300 series garden tractor frame has had is Husqvarna now has a straight back instead of the sloped backplate. Otherwise, it’s still the same garden tractor frame they have been using for the last 20 years.
Yes, a C-channed or I-beam frame design is generally stronger than the pan style. But, In this case, the C-channel is not stronger. It’s a lighter frame. It would not hold up to the K58/K62 transmissions, pushing dirt with the heavy-duty blade, moving dirt with the scoop or using the 50 inch snowblower and rear weights.
All that said, Yes, the garden tractor frame has been prone to frame cracking since 2009. Why Husqvarna has never reinforced it is beyond me. I even asked a young Husqvarna engineer a few years ago and all I got was a shoulder shrug.
Geoffrey Papsco
Hi Paul – I’m struggling to hang in there with my selection of the 248G ( Spring 2021 purchase) . The thing that worries me most are the comments that reflected poor assembly, fit, finish and warranty repairs with Husqvarna. The GT50 or XT2 SLX50 may in fact be the better choices just because there’s less risk with these issues? Have you heard of these issues improving yet? Thanks
Paul
Hi Geoffrey, No, I have not heard of any improvements in the parts availability, getting warranty work approved, and getting a Husqvarna serviced from a dealer that you didn’t buy the machine from.
Cub Cadet is committed to having any dealer work on your equipment. Be sure to register your product and if you buy online or from a big box store keep your receipt.
Franklin Steele
Hi Paul,
I wrote to you on Dec.23 about the blowby issue on the Clear Cut deck of my Husqvarna TS 348XD. I heard from my dealer today and Husqvarna is going to pay for having a containment plate kit put on the front of the deck. It’s a little strange that the deck has a lip on the left front of the deck but not the middle or right side where the problem is. Seems to me they should have carried the lip all the way across the front. Here’s a link for your information.
https://sleequipment.com/husqvarna-genuine-part-594115001-kit-svc-plate-containment-48cc.html?fee=38&fep=2734662&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=product%20ads(BSC)&utm_term=1101201914870&utm_content=Ad%20group%20#1
Franklin Steele
Hi Paul,
Thanks for all you do to help everyone with our mowers! I have a new Husqvarna TS 348XD with the Clear Cut deck. There is a significant amount of discharge out of the right front of the deck instead of the chute. The deck is properly level side to side and is within specs of pitch front to back. I haven’t hit anything. Any idea what is the problem or how to correct it?
Paul
Hi Franklin, What you are experiencing is called blowby. Well-engineered decks have a lip on the inside bottom of the deck to keep that from happening. Your deck has straight sides with no lip on the bottom to redirect the grass back under the deck. Watch this video starting at 11:38 to see the lip I’m talking about.
.
The older stamped Husqvarna decks had a reinforcement plate that you could add to improve the blowby but there is nothing I know of for the Clear Cut decks to reduce it.
George Johnson
Hi Paul,
My 2016 XT2 LX46 Cub now has 78 hours on the hour meter. It’s been a great tractor so far and I am very happy with it. Have to be careful with the auto-lock transmission on turns though. I am meticulous regarding maintenance on all of my vehicles. Tuff Torq recommends that the 10w30 oil be drained and refilled with their Tuff Teck 5w50 synthectic oil. I am considering replacing the fluid soon. I’ve seen YouTube videos showing two possible options. One is to suck the fluid out, the other is to remove the transaxle and flip it over to drain the oil. Do you have any recommendations on the better method? Sucking the oil out would be the easiest and simplest, but I’m not sure it is the better method. Thanks for your professional opinions and help as always. Oh, btw, my last Cub was 49 years old and still running well when I traded it in for the XT2.
Geo
Paul
Hi George, I always discourage anyone who doesn’t have the proper tools and a properly clean work environment from getting inside a hydro transmission. The tolerances are so close and ANY dirt or other foreign matter introduced into the housing will greatly shorten the life of the trans.
So, Your local dealer should have a commercial, closed vacuum system that can quickly and cleanly change the oil out in your transmission. They can do it without spilling, without introducing dirt, and properly dispose of the old oil.
George Johnson
Thanks Paul. The problem with having the dealer do the fluid change is that I would have to pay $50 to transport the tractor to them. I was a quality assurance technician for 40 years at Parker Hannifin. We manufactured hydraulic piston pumps and motors for industrial and mobile applications. I completely understand the need to not introduce dirt or debris into the transaxle. Dirt is the biggest enemy of hydraulic systems…and heat also.
The fluid change is something I would need to accomplish myself. I have no reservations about do it, I just wanted to glean any knowledge or experience you may have had with this procedure. I appreciate you replies. Stay well, and stay safe my friend.
Geo
Paul
Hi George, If you worked for Parker Hannifin I’m confident you know what to do. When I taught Maintenance Techs for a Nuclear Power Company Patrick Parker used to personally come and teach them how to build/use their fittings.
Amazon has a Briggs & Stratton 5430K Oil Extractor Pump that should work well.
Pat
Lots of great info here. I’m giving away my old Murray rider and looking at spending around $1800 for a new one. Looking at a CC XT1 and a Troybilt SuperBronco and a Deere 120 — was also considering Husqvarna. Lots of trade offs. I have about 3/4+ with some uneven parts but no great slopes. Will be garage kept and hope to last 18 years. Any advice (besides keep the oil clean)?
Paul
Hi Pat, the XT1 and Troy-Bilt are the same mower with a different engine and paint color. To get the same specifications in a Deere you will have to move up to the E130/140.
I would like to suggest that you spend just a little more and get the Cub Cadet XT2 LX42. With it you get better, 4-ply tires, ball-bearing front wheels, better seat with armrests, a front bumper, and Cub Cadet’s good v-twin engine. Check it out here: Cub Cadet XT2 LX42
RD Sill
“K46. Commonly used in Lawn/Yard Tractors….. This transmission will handle mowing slopes, pulling larger yard carts, and lawn rollers. Husqvarna properly uses this transmission in the 100 and 200 series tractors.”
REALLY? The K46 is widely regarded as junk. NOT for hills NOT for pulling trailers. I have one in A Husqvarna rider and, as typical, if failed. I was fortunate to get 500hr out of it. Husky even deleted the transaxle drain plug to save a few cents, and then put the gas tank above the transaxle. So no preventive maintenance possible unless drop the entire rear end out. Rediculous and aggravating. The K46 is low budget bigbox junk.
Paul
Hi RD, Yes REALLY! For every one person complaining on some tractor forum about his K46 there are 10,000 (yes 10,000) other happy owners. There are literally millions of K46 transmissions sold EVERY year and how many do you really hear going bad? 100? 1000? Please show me the proof that it is “junk.”
Now, this website has been around for 15 years now and I’ve repeatedly said, “The K46 is a good transmission when it is used with a 42-48 inch deck. You can use it on hills, pull heavy yard carts, and residential lawn rollers.”
It does not last when used with a 54-inch deck and 20 inch wheels – period.
It does not last when used with a 48-inch deck and 23-inch wheels on hills – period. DO NOT BUY a Husqvarna LGT and expect the transmission to last.
Husqvarna was the last manufacture to continue using the K46 in their “LGT” tractors. (54-inch deck, 22-23 inch wheels) and you are right, it doesn’t last. Thankfully, they finally got the memo and didn’t use it this year in with a 54-inch deck. So – what I said is correct, “Husqvarna properly uses this transmission in the 100 and 200 series tractors.”
500 hours? That is really good for a residential mower. For most people that is 12 to 18 years of use. Most people are tired of all the other wear and tear maintenance on their mowers by then and they will buy a new one.
All the manufacturers including Husqvarna, MTD, and John Deere use these trannys in their 42-48 inch lawn tractors (Deere is still putting it in a 54-inch deck, 23 inch rear tire mower) Even the $4000 300 series Deere’s use them.
Finally, Yes, the tranny is sealed, why? Because most homeowners today either don’t know how to do their own maintenance or don’t want to.
Kirk
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the great information. I’m looking at getting a new mower for about 1.5 acres of somewhat flat but bumpy in places land and found your site while looking for information on the TS 248G.
I narrowed my choices to either the 248G (still available) or the CC GT50 (on back-order). Another option I can get is the E170 but not leaning that way yet.
The 248G and GT50 look very similar with the same K58 and other features, from what I’ve read the Kawasaki is probably a bit better than the Kohler but the CC seems to have a stronger frame but not sure if that is enough to choose the GT50. Also I think the 248G has a locking Diff but the GT50 does not.
What are your thought on pros and cons of these two models and how do they compare for cut quality?
I’m also considering spending a bit more and would consider the GX50 (on back-order though) or there is an X350 (not sure if it was 42 or 48) available locally, or if you have another suggestion in those price ranges.
Thanks,
Kirk
Paul
Hi Kirk, The XT2 GX50 gives you better tires, armrests, ball-bearing front wheels and a nice bumper. It’s worth the extra money in those features.
I am seeing a lot of assembly issues and poor support with Husqvarna products this year so I can’t recommend them at this time.
Cub Cadet is offering special financing and you may be able to get the tractor faster directly from Cub Cadet here: Cub Cadet XT2 GX50 FAB
Kirk
Thanks Paul,
I’ve been researching more after I posted my question and due to frame issues, cut quality with the 3 blade decks, and issues with warranty service that I found mentioned in many posts, I did decide a Husqvarna is not the best option for me.
Currently I”m trying to decide between the XT2 GX50, the XT2 SLX50, or maybe the GT50 if I wanted to keep the cost to the $3000 level with the same engine and transmission as the GX50.
It appears the main difference between the XT2 options are the engine type and the transmission.
My main usage is mowing (up to 2 acres after some clearing) and hauling stuff with a cart, it seems like the SLX50 would be fine in that capacity.
What are your thoughts on these two engines, the EFI type engine does not seem that common in lawn tractors and there are lots of LX46 EFI models available so maybe not as popular?
For the transmission what do I give up with the K46 over the K58?
The only attachment(s) I might want to get if they would work is either the plow or a box scrapper.
My main usage for either of these is to keep the weeds from growing in the middle of my 400 ft long driveway but I’m not sure that would work having never tried that.
Finally is there any considerations over the GT50 style deck vs the FAB deck?
Thanks again,
Kirk
P.S. I did try that link and the only store option I get for my location is 2 hours south of me in another state and they do not deliver out of state.
Paul
Hi Kirk, If you want the heavy-duty transmission you have to have a “G” in the model number. The SLX50 has the lighter duty, K46 lawn tractor transmission. If you are just hauling twigs, branches, and occasionally a couple of bags of mulch it’s fine – but if you are hauling lots of firewood, rocks, dirt, and other heavy materials it’s not a good choice.
The K46 is NOT designed to pull a box scraper!
The stamped deck on the GT50 is a great mowing deck – it’s just not as heavy-duty as the fabricated decks. Fro what you are doing it will be just fine.
EFI in autos has been around for years – EFI in lawn mowers is new and not everyone is willing to spend the extra money yet to get an engine that starts every time and runs on E15 fuels. (For some reason people who will spend $50,000 for a pickup won’t spend an extra $300 for EFI in their mower)
Kirk
Thanks Paul,
I was concerned about that K46, even with just using the 50″ FAB deck so thanks for that feedback.
I also like the upgrades on the XT2 over the XT1 so I settled on the XT2 GX50.
I could have received the GX54 D a few weeks sooner and for the extra $300 it’s well worth it, but my shed opening is only 58″ so that felt a bit tight and my Wife preferred the 50″ just for that reason.
Looking forward to taking it for a spin and thanks again for the great information and feedback.
Marc Hemmerick
Paul,
Just curious how you would put the Husqvarna 300 series vs the JD X500’s and the Cub XT3. When I do the comparison the Husqvarna is hands down the winner especially when it comes to price point.
Paul
Hi Marc, Sorry, it’s not even close. The 300 series is fairly comparable with the XT2 GX54 D FAB. The transmission of the Cub Cadet is actually the newest model and the specs are different because the K66 in the Husqvarna specs were written 20 years ago when we ran engines at 3600 RPM.
The X500 Deere has a much stronger transmission. The K72 is the strongest tranny you can get without moving up to the compact tractors.
Frames. The XT2 frame is stiffer. The XT3 and X500 frames are considerably stronger.
You really do get what you pay for in this business. If a mower is $1500-3000 cheaper there are reasons why it is.
(Please read the comment above about the frames.)
Mike
Hi Paul
Thanks for all the info you put out.I have learned much.
Well it did not take long for the Husqvarna frame issue come up.Im looking for a new mower.I mow one acre and need to tow a cart from time to time about 600 pounds or so landscape and construction materials.
I have now a 1996 true value lawn chief [MTD} with the 16hp briggs I/C opposed twin with hydrogear t-2 transmission.It has been a great mower.Still is.
But I would like to move up with something more heavy duty.I was looking hard at the Husqvarna 248G but if the frame issue has not been addressed that’s a deal breaker for me.
Looks like its going to be the cub cadet xt1 gt50.
Just cant gamble on the Husqvarna.
Laurence
A couple of months ago I had seen (online) the new/updated TS 300 series models for 2020, but have yet to have an up close and personal encounter with them, so as to give them a good old fashioned eye-balling.
I was hoping that they had re-positioned the updated 300 series hydrostatic F/R pedals to be side-by-side like they have done for the 200 series, however if the pictures Husqvarna are using online are correct it appears it is not to be so. Nonetheless, their choice of layout is not something which would stop me from buying one, because I have long gotten used to that positioning of their hydro pedals.
The most important thing I have been and still am concerned about is their frame. I see in the manual for the updated tractor that they now include the reinforcing frame brackets (“Chassis Plate Reinforcement”) near the back wheels to better handle the stress which at times is put on it at those points (from which I read in forums, prior to the use of those additional plates, they did not always survive when placed under “too much” stress, particularly if said stress lasted too long).
Do you know if the frame which is used on the updated TS 300 models are different in gauge thickness, or any other frame design changes, from that which had been used on the replaced TS 300 series models? I see on their website, that they now specifically mention using a “Heavy duty frame” and they say it is an “11 gauge bolted steel designed to endure rougher use.” (I am curious as to how they had described the frames on the replaced TS 300 series models, I don’t recall.) But I am thinking that the prior models may have been 12 gauge, though am unsure about this ? ?; if so, then the new models being 11 gauge are now thicker. However that may be just me indulging in wishful thinking. 😉
Paul, what is your opinion on L frames (ladder style) versus C channel frames? I know in some circles the debate goes on regarding which is “stronger” or “tougher.”
Anyway, if these new 2020 TS 300 series models’ frames can prove themselves by holding up under a recurring, and temporary sustained, duress from time to time, via ground engaging work, and endure, then all that’s left for Husqvarna to add is power steering! 😉 And in doing so should Husqvarna be able to keep the price point from significantly rising much higher, then come that day come, look out John Deere! 😉
Nuff of my commenting and questions. Paul I hope you remain safe from the coronavirus and all is well, and remains that way, with you and yours.
Laurence
Paul
Hi Laurence, I don’t have all the answers yet, but let me tell you a few things I know from the last 20 years.
The old Husqvarna and Craftsman Garden tractors (until 2011) used a 14 ga frame. The only difference between them and the Yard tractors was the sloping back end on the GT.
The Husqvarna LGT and newer Craftsman GTs (2012-2015) used a different design but I was never able to find out if it was 12 ga.
Why do they crack? 1. The Husqvarna frames are designed to flex. This gives you a better ride and the deck supposedly follows the ground contours better. For many years the Husqvarna/Craftsman stamped decks did cut better and more evenly than the rest but Deere jumped ahead of the in 2014ish and Cub Cadet leaped ahead in 2016.
2. Because it flexes one of the biggest issues is the transmissions bolts would come loose and before that problem was caught it bent the frame and it would crack. A lot of cracked frames were blamed on a bad frame when it was actually the tranny bolts coming loose.
3. This frame was designed for 5 MPH. When they started installing the 8 MPH trannys in 2012ish they never took into account the additional stress on the frame from going that fast. 90% of the broken frames can be attributed to owners mowing as fast as the tractor will go over rough old lawns, running through fields and off-roading out in the timber.
The 2020 TS 200 and 300 series frames have the same part number. I don’t know the ga. I haven’t checked but I’m going to assume the 2019 frame is the same.
Cub Cadet’s frames are designed to be stiff. Because they don’t flex you can beat the hell out of the mower and you won’t crack or bend the frame. Like a Zero-turn the mower deck follows the rear wheels up and down movements and is tucked back tight to the rear wheels so it follows that movement closely. With their new deck, this gives the Cub Cadet tractors a better cut overall than the Husqvarna’s.
I don’t have enough experience with Husqvarna’s latest “Clear Cut” deck to know if they cut as well as the Cub Cadet and John Deere now.
So, I like the TS 300 series a lot but at this point in time I’d still spend the extra money and get the XT3 Cub cadet. The XT3 is just the best…
George Johnson
Hello Paul,
I have a 2016 Cub Cadet XT-2 lawn tractor. I love the tractor with one exception. My model is the LX46F which has the auto-locking differential, like several of the Husqvarna tractors. My issue is that when making turns, even going slowly, it tears up the turf. Is there any option to remedy this problem? The auto-locking differential is great for traction, but I wish that it would not tear up my lawn on turns.
Thank you,
Geo
Paul
Hi George, Tey this: When you get ready to make a turn, stop the tractor, and then back up a couple of inches. The diff should release so you can make the turn.
Don’t try to turn going up a slope unless you stop before you make the turn.
(I wish Hydro-Gear and Tuff-Torq could work something out with General Transmissions so we could have the Ariens Auto-turn installed instead of these automatic diffs. All our problems would go away…)