Which New John Deere E100 Series Is Right For Me?
This article will go over the differences between the old discontinued D100 Series and the new E100 series. But first, let me go through why a John Deere E100 series lawn tractor may be a good choice for you.
The E100 Series will stay the same for 2020. Consumer Reports rates the E130, E140, E110 and E160 higher than any other competitor’s riding mowers. If you want an affordable lawn tractor and the best cut possible the John Deere 100 Series is the best choice.
John Deere E100 series lawn tractors are Deere’s most affordable riding mowers. They range from a small, inexpensive, 42-inch riding mower for flat 1/4 acre lawns to a 54-inch lawn tractor that can easily mow 3-5 acres a week. The E100 series has mowers with different engine/transmission combinations so you can pick a performance level that suits the way you mow your lawn. Review websites that actually test lawn tractors always place John Deere 100 series tractors with a 42-inch deck in the top 20% of the current residential models. In other words, you can trust that for the price John Deere E100 series mowers will give you the quality cut you want.
Click on the link below to check to see a video overview of the new mowers. Then come back and we’ll go through my opinions and recommendations for you.
John Deere E100 Series Overview
What the new E100 Series John Deere Lawn Tractor is: The John Deere E100 series is a logical progression of the D100 series you are all familiar with. Take what works on the D100 series and improve the overall lawn tractor. Take an affordable and dependable lawn tractor and upgrade it with more a more comfortable operator area and controls. The new E100 series will continue to be built in Greeneville, Tennessee.
Here are a few of the key features that are improved with the new E100 series lawn tractors
- Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
- 1/4 inch cutting height increments
- Operator station is wide and comfortable
- Redesigned Steering Wheel
- Redesigned operator controls are easier to use
- Separate forward and reverse pedals
- Cast Iron Front Axle on all models
- Powerful battery helps with starts, even after lengthy storage
- Same deep deck design helps lift grass for a superior cut
- ELS extended life series engine on E160, E170, E180 (Up to 50% longer engine life)
- Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System for fast and simple oil changes (E120, E130, E150, E160, E170, and E180) I’ll talk about this more a little later
- 2-bin bagger for all 42 and 48-inch models.
- You can see what accessories are available for your new John Deere E100 series here: E100 Series Accessories
- You can see what accessories are available at The Home Depot for John Deere riding mowers here: John Deere Accessories at The Home Depot
What the new E100 Series John Deere Lawn Tractor is not:
- The E100 series is a good, well-designed lawn tractor and is not a “Garden Tractor.” It is not a heavy duty tractor capable of pulling ground engaging equipment like a plow, disk or food plot cultivator. Even though the E170/E180 has the large rear tires the transmission and looks like a typical garden tractor is not heavy enough to pull heavy loads or last a long time mowing long slopes or steep hills.
- I can’t recommend the E180 with the 54-inch deck for properties with hills or long slopes. The combination of the large 54-inch deck, K46 standard lawn tractor transmission, and larger 22-inch wheels will greatly reduce the life of the mower if used this way. Yes, It will probably make it through the defects warranty period but if you plan on keeping your lawn tractor for more than 5 years I strongly suggest that if you have hills and long slopes to look for a lawn/garden tractor with a stronger transmission. (My warning here includes all brands of lawn tractors and LGT riders with larger 22/23 inch rear wheels, the K46 transmission, and the 54-inch deck)
- The E100 series is also not a “rough cut” or field mower. If you have pastures, paddocks or other areas that you mow monthly or less often the John Deere E100 series is not designed for that type of work. It is designed to mow your suburban or farm lawn well.
What’s different between the New E100 Series and the D100 series you are familiar with?
- Other than ergonomic and cosmetic changes the new E-100 series appears to remain unchanged from the 2017 D100 series. That’s not a bad thing because John Deere has been “tweaking” this line for quite some time and it is a good, inexpensive lawn tractor.
- I like the fact that John Deere took the “Let’s keep what works” approach and made a better lawn tractor instead of something completely new. This gives me the confidence to help you find the best E100 series for you.
What’s different between the Dealer Models, Lowes Models, and Home Depot Models?
- There is no difference between the E100 series lawn tractors sold at your local dealer or the ones sold at Lowes and Home Depot.
- But – Home Depot carries more models than Lowes including the California Compliant models for sale in California.
- And – Home Depot includes free delivery, free assembly, free inspection from a local authorized John Deere dealer. The local dealer actually brings the new lawn tractor to your home for free. This “White Glove Delivery” includes Unpack Rider and Setup, Remove All Packing Debris, Connect and Check Battery, Test Starter Function, Set Correct Tire Pressure, Check – Fill Fluids, File Mower Warranty for you, and show you how to use your new John Deere lawn tractor. (In my opinion, this is a $150 value that you don’t get with many other brands) See all John Deere Lawn Tractors at The Home Depot here: John Deere Lawn Tractors
A List Of The New E100 Series Lawn Tractors. Which one is best for you?
John Deere E100 Lawn Tractor
Model: E100
Type: Lawn Tractor
17.5 HP* single cylinder engine
42 inch Edge Cutting System: Edge Cutting System: Deep deck design helps lift grass for a superior cut
Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Operator station is wide and comfortable
Powerful battery helps with starts, even after lengthy storage
LIST PRICE: $1,499.00 USD
Note: This lawn tractor replaces the retiring D105.
Who is this lawn tractor for? The E100 is a basic lawn tractor and will work for small, 1/4 acre lawns that you mow every week. If you like to putt around your yard, pull a small cart to pick up sticks and leaves this is a good choice. It is not designed to mow long slopes or hills. You can attach a bagger or pull a sweeper but I strongly suggest only using them for fall cleanup – not for weekly green grass collection because of the weight. John Deere does offer a mulch plug, mulching blades and bagging blades for this tractor. If your lawn is very thick southern grass or very lush I strongly suggest moving up to the E120 or E130 twin cylinder engines.
Link to read more and purchase at The Home Depot: E100 42 in. 17.5 HP Gas Automatic Lawn Tractor
John Deere E110 Lawn Tractor
Model: E110
Type: Lawn Tractor
19 HP* single cylinder engine
42 inch Edge Cutting System: Deep deck design helps lift grass for a superior cut
Redesigned deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Operator station is wide and comfortable
Powerful battery helps with starts, even after lengthy storage
LIST PRICE: $1,699.00 USD
Who is this lawn tractor for? The E110 is a good lawn tractor with an economical single-cylinder engine. It will work for lawns up to one acre that you mow every week. If you pull a small cart to pick up sticks, leaves or a few bags of mulch this is a good choice. It is not designed to mow long slopes or hills. You can attach a bagger. John Deere does offer a mulch plug, mulching blades and bagging blades for this tractor. If your lawn is very thick southern grass or very lush I strongly suggest moving up to the E120 or E130 twin cylinder engines. Moving up also gives you a better seat.
Link to read more and purchase at The Home Depot: E110 42 in. 19 HP Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor
Before I go through the rest of the new E-100 series I want to spend a little time discussing the Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System.
The new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System is an excellent idea and really simplifies changing your oil. But is it something you really need? I’m going to 4 reasons why it’s a good choice and 3 reasons why it may not be the best choice for you.
- Today’s good synthetic oils don’t go bad – they just get dirty. For example, Mobil One has a semi-truck running around the U.S. that never gets an oil change. Every 10,000 miles they take the oil out of the truck and filter the dirt out of it. They then put the oil back into the engine and at the last count I’ve read they have over 3 million miles on that same oil.
- So it makes sense that if you use good synthetic oil in your lawn tractor and then use a good filter to keep the oil clean you should also never have to change the oil. (Most owners use their lawn tractor 50 hours a year or 500 hours in 10 years – That only 30,000 miles in an automobile.)
- This system is environmentally friendly because you are only recycling .75 quarts of oil instead of over 2 quarts.
- So changing the oil is easy with the Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System but this is not the only maintenance you will have to do on your John Deere E100 series engine. You will still need to change the air filter and fuel filter at the recommended intervals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxkkuPldMro
I like this concept and I like the idea of saving time, but there are three things that bother me about the new John Deere System.
- The cost of the John Deere 30-Second Oil Change System: Filter with Oil is $39.99! at The Home Depot. Rumor is the retail price of this system is $60! For me, that price is outrageous and makes me want to run away from an otherwise great lawn tractor. Why? Because I can get a 5-quart oil/filter change for my 2015 Dodge Caravan at my car dealership for $20 and even a full synthetic oil/filter change for $55. Good synthetic oil and filter for my current V-Twin zero-turn is less than $25!
- I don’t know if John Deere is using synthetic oil in this system because they still want you to change the filter every 50 hours. If they were using good synthetic oil and this new high capacity filter they should be able to extend the filter replacement out to 150-200 hours.
- It locks you into the Deere “Universe” for something you have always been able to have a choice with over the years. I’ve seen way too many unique systems that didn’t pan out for a brand disappear and then you ended up scrapping an otherwise good product because the brand no longer supported it. Since this new system is on a Briggs & Stratton supplied engine block I’m hoping that this is a Briggs & Stratton patent and it will become more widely available (and cheaper) in a few years.
To beat this topic to death – the following is from John Deere’s dealer website https://salesmanual.deere.com
The John Deere Easy Change 30-second oil change system makes changing the engine oil easy, quick, and clean. Changing the oil is as easy as twisting on a new oil-filled filter. Oil does not need to be drained from the engine.
The John Deere Easy Change filter is an additional engine oil reservoir. Changing the filter removes the captured contaminants and replaces about 0.8 qt (0.76 L) of the engine oil.
Compared to the 100 Series traditional oil filter, the Easy Change oil system uses a synthetic filter media material, has more filtering capacity, and has more oil flow capacity, — and the engine system has 40 percent more oil volume.
Everyone who uses the John Deere Easy Change system saves time and avoids the mess of a traditional oil change. In the past, many 100 Series Lawn Tractor owners rarely or never got around to changing their engine oil. With John Deere Easy Change, even owners who previously would not consider changing the oil themselves can easily do it now. The Easy Change 30-second oil change system is a no-mess, no-fuss solution the competition cannot match.
Installation instructions are in the Operator’s Manual and in the John Deere Easy Change service part box.
Please recycle. Many local government recycling programs, authorized retailers, auto-service centers, and auto-parts stores will puncture and recycle used oil filters
Ok, Back to the new E100 Series Lawn Tractors.
John Deere E120 Lawn Tractor
Model: E120
Type: Lawn Tractor
20 HP* V-Twin smooth running engine
42 inch Edge Cutting System: Deep deck design helps lift grass for a superior cut
Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Operator station is wide and comfortable
Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System for fast and simple service
LIST PRICE: $1,899.00 USD
Who is this lawn tractor for? The E120 is a good lawn tractor with an economical twin-cylinder engine. It will work for lawns up to one acre that you mow every week. If you pull a small cart to pick up sticks, leaves or a few bags of mulch this is a good choice. It is not designed to mow long slopes or hills. You can attach a bagger. John Deere does offer a mulch plug, mulching blades and bagging blades for this tractor. This lawn tractor will handle southern grass or very lush well.
Link to read more and purchase at The Home Depot: E120 42 in. 20 HP V-Twin Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor
John Deere E130 Lawn Tractor
Model: E130
Type: Lawn Tractor
22 HP* V-Twin smooth running engine
42 inch Edge Cutting System: Deep deck design helps lift grass for a superior cut
Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Operator station is wide and comfortable
Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System for fast and simple service
LIST PRICE: $1,999.00 USD
Who is this lawn tractor for? The E130 is just different enough that a competitor of The Home Depot can state: EXCLUSIVE! (My guess is it uses a different carburetor and comes with a front bumper.)
The E130 is not available at The Home Depot but is available at your local John Deere dealer.
John Deere E140 Lawn Tractor
Model: E140
Type: Lawn Tractor
22 HP* V-Twin smooth running engine
48 inch Edge Cutting System: Deep deck design helps lift grass for a superior cut
Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Operator station is wide and comfortable
High-back seat is easily adjustable
Does NOT have the Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
LIST PRICE: $1,999.00 USD
Who is this lawn tractor for? John Deere makes four 48 inch E series lawn tractors that are very similar. At first glance, this can be very confusing so I’ll list the differences here:
- All work well for up to 2-acre lawns that you mow weekly. The 48-inch deck mows well and will side discharge, mulch and bag (with mulch cover, special blades and/or 2-bin bagger)
- All will handle thick southern grasses
- The E140 has a 22 HP V-Twin, high back seat and DOES NOT have the Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
- The E150 has the 22 HP V-Twin, high back seat and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
- The E160 has the 24 HP ELS V-Twin, super-duper Comfort Plus lumbar seat and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. The extended life series (ELS) engine gives you 50% more life over the 22 HP V-Twin.
- The E170 has the 25 HP ELS V-Twin, super-duper Comfort Plus lumbar seat, larger 22×9.5-12 tires, and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. The extended life series (ELS) engine gives you 50% more life over the 22 HP V-Twin.
Link to read more and purchase at The Home Depot: E140 48 in. 22 HP V-Twin Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor
John Deere E150 Lawn Tractor
Model: E150
Type: Lawn Tractor
22 HP* V-Twin smooth running engine
48 inch Edge Cutting System: Deep deck design helps lift grass for a superior cut
Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Operator station is wide and comfortable
Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System for fast and simple service
LIST PRICE: $2,099.00 USD
Note: Replaces the D155
Who is this lawn tractor for? John Deere makes four 48 inch E series lawn tractors that are very similar. At first glance, this can be very confusing so I’ll list the differences here:
- All work well for up to 2-acre lawns that you mow weekly. The 48-inch deck mows well and will side discharge, mulch and bag (with mulch cover, special blades and/or 2-bin bagger)
- All will handle thick southern grasses
- The E140 has a 22 HP V-Twin, high back seat and DOES NOT have the Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
- The E150 has the 22 HP V-Twin, high back seat and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
- The E160 has the 24 HP ELS V-Twin, super-duper Comfort Plus lumbar seat and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. The extended life series (ELS) engine gives you 50% more life over the 22 HP V-Twin.
- The E170 has the 25 HP ELS V-Twin, super-duper Comfort Plus lumbar seat, larger 22×9.5-12 tires, and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. The extended life series (ELS) engine gives you 50% more life over the 22 HP V-Twin.
Link to read more and purchase at The Home Depot: E150 48 in. 22 HP V-Twin Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor
John Deere E160 Lawn Tractor
Model: E160
Type: Lawn Tractor
24 HP* V-Twin extended life series engine
48 inch Edge Cutting System: Deep deck design with three blades lifts grass for a superior cut
Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Deluxe high back seat with lumbar support adjusts easily
Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System for fast and simple service
LIST PRICE: $2,299.00 USD
Who is this lawn tractor for? John Deere makes four 48 inch E series lawn tractors that are very similar. At first glance, this can be very confusing so I’ll list the differences here:
- All work well for up to 2-acre lawns that you mow weekly. The 48-inch deck mows well and will side discharge, mulch and bag (with mulch cover, special blades and/or 2-bin bagger)
- All will handle thick southern grasses
- The E140 has a 22 HP V-Twin, high back seat and DOES NOT have the Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
- The E150 has the 22 HP V-Twin, high back seat and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
- The E160 has the 24 HP ELS V-Twin, super-duper Comfort Plus lumbar seat and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. The extended life series (ELS) engine gives you 50% more life over the 22 HP V-Twin.
- The E170 has the 25 HP ELS V-Twin, super-duper Comfort Plus lumbar seat, larger 22×9.5-12 tires, and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. The extended life series (ELS) engine gives you 50% more life over the 22 HP V-Twin.
Link to read more and purchase at The Home Depot: E160 48 in. 24 HP V-Twin ELS Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor
John Deere E170 Lawn Tractor
Model:
E170
Type: Lawn Tractor
48 inch Edge Cutting System: 25 HP* V-Twin extended life series engine
Deep deck design with three blades lifts grass for a superior cut
Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Operator station is wide and comfortable
Deluxe high back seat with lumbar support adjusts easily
LIST PRICE: $2,399.00 USD
Who is this lawn tractor for? John Deere makes four 48 inch E series lawn tractors that are very similar. At first glance, this can be very confusing so I’ll list the differences here:
- All work well for up to 2-acre lawns that you mow weekly. The 48-inch deck mows well and will side discharge, mulch and bag (with mulch cover, special blades and/or 2-bin bagger)
- All will handle thick southern grasses
- The E140 has a 22 HP V-Twin, high back seat and DOES NOT have the Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
- The E150 has the 22 HP V-Twin, high back seat and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System
- The E160 has the 24 HP ELS V-Twin, super-duper Comfort Plus lumbar seat and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. The extended life series (ELS) engine gives you 50% more life over the 22 HP V-Twin.
- The E170 has the 25 HP ELS V-Twin, super-duper Comfort Plus lumbar seat, larger 22×9.5-12 tires, and DOES have the new Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. The extended life series (ELS) engine gives you 50% more life over the 22 HP V-Twin.
The Home Depot does not carry the E170. Please see your local John Deere dealer for more information.
John Deere E180 Lawn Tractor
Model: E180
Type: Lawn Tractor
25 HP* V-Twin extended life series engine
54 inch Edge Cutting System: Deep deck design with three blades lifts grass for a superior cut
Improved deck lift lever raises and lowers deck easily
Operator station is wide and comfortable
Deluxe high back seat with lumbar support adjusts easily
LIST PRICE: $2,799.00 USD
Who is this lawn tractor for? It is listed as “heavy-duty” compared to the D170 yet the only difference is the deck. Be careful – this lawn tractor is not for everyone. Why? There are a bunch of lawn tractors with high wheels and big decks and at first glance, they look like a heavy duty garden tractor. But they are not. The Husqvarna LGT54DXL, Troy-Bilt XP Super Bronco XP 54, Cub Cadet ST54 FAB and this John Deere E180 are not garden tractors because they use a Tuff Torq K46 medium duty lawn tractor transmission found in many of the 42-48 inch lawn tractors instead of a heavy-duty garden tractor transmission. (With a John Deere you have to move up to the $3999 X370 to get the heavy duty transmission)
What does that mean for you? These lawn tractors ride a little better than their smaller siblings and the large 54-inch deck will cut large areas faster than the standard 42-inch riding lawn mower but they are not designed for mowing long slopes, steep hills, pulling heavy loads or using ground engaging attachments.
Don’t get me wrong. This is a nice, large deck lawn tractor. I recommend it for up to 5-acre smooth lawns – mowed weekly. It’s large enough and wide enough that it will ride well and mow well. If you don’t like lap-bar zero-turn mowers this is a very good choice.
Link to read more and purchase at The Home Depot: E180 54 in. 25 HP V-Twin ELS Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor
See all the John Deere Lawn Tractors including the California Compliant Models at The Home Depot here: John Deere Lawn Tractors
Danny Zuccari
Hi Paul
You seem to have John Deere expertise and that is what I need if I can pick your brain.
I bought a brand new John Deere E140 48″ cut. On flat surfaces it works great, no problems. on any kind of slopes/hills ( I live in Southern Florida so any hills are man-made) the mower struggles to even get up the slope. And it’s not a long slope, maybe 6 to 8 feet. I have checked the the tire pressure. I cut when the grass is dry. Nothing out of the ordinary from my end. I had an older D125 I believe and never had a problem getting up these slopes. Any insight you have I would be grateful to read about.
Paul
Hi Danny, It appears it’s time for a new engine to transmission belt. An easy way to check is when you go up the hill use the top of your foot to lift up on the clutch pedal. If the mower goes up the slope better then the cause is the drive belt is worn and needs to be replaced.
Danny zuccari
Paul,
Thanks for your suggestion. This has been going on since I bought the mower brand new from Lowe’s. Also, the lever in the back that allows you to move the mower when it’s pulled out, well, that can be in or out and I can push the mower going forward and push is and it goes backward. That’s why I am wondering if maybe there might be a transmission issue with the mower. Like I said, since I can remember, the mower struggles to climb the slightest hills/slopes. Not saying it might not be the belt, but there are other issues that make me think it’s not the belt.
Angelo
Paul,
I was looking at a used E120 (24 hours on it)
I have a basic 1/2 acer yard.
Comes with the bagger and mulching set
$1,250
What do you think
Paul
Hi Angelo, I don’t recommend used equipment because there are too many factors to tell you if it’s a good deal or not.
– It’s used – no warranty.
– Can you work on it yourself.
– Does the transmission make noise when you go forward or in reverse.
– does the deck shake when the blades are engaged
– Is the engine oil clean or a light brown color? Not black or smells burnt.
– Does it steer easily. Is the steering wheel in the proper position.
– Are the tires worn or scuffed
– Has the battery been replaced. If not it will need a new one soon
– Have someone else start the engine, rev it up to half speed. Walk around it and listen for rattles. Rattle can be bad idler pulleys and other parts worn out.
That the major stuff to look at.
Don
Hi Paul, Very interesting and helpful website. I purchased an E160 this spring new at a John Deere dealership. Love the machine so far. I live in Maine and I was considering getting the snowblower attachment. I have a 2 car wide driveway about 60 feet long. I have 2 questions,
I found one used that came off a D110, will that fit the E160?
Also after reading the conversations, is it a good idea to put the snow blower on this tractor? This transmission issue would concern me. In Maine depending on the winter you can be using this quite a number of times.
Paul
Hi Don, I don’t know if it will fit but I’m guessing it will. That said, I don’t recommend putting a snowblower on a 160 but it does have the K46 transmission so it is the best choice without going to a true garden tractor. (K58, K62 transmission)
Keep your rear weight under 500 lbs (Including yourself) and it should hold up.
Larry Brown
Hello Paul:
Just ran into your site – excellent advice. I will check out the YouTube channel as well. I have a small yard, perhaps .25 acres of grass that I will be laying and planting this spring. On a modest slope for much of the lot, just spread out and windy around other plantings with lots of trees. Some areas are a little tight for a larger deck. I’ll be using a tractor for mowing, maybe a smaller cyclone rake. I’d like to also use it for hauling bags of stone, topsoil and pine straw. OK – my target machine so far is a Deere S240 with a 42 deck and a 17P cart with a 2″ ball. Your thoughts on this combo and alternate choices within the Deere line (and maybe Cub Cadet after reading some of your comments)? Would I even want to consider a machine in the E line? Also, what the heck is the difference between E machines and the S machines on Deere’s site and at Deere-brand dealers? Do you have any other cart suggestions? By the way, I’m aware that one can overload a cart, particularly with stone and dirt and exceed the capabilities of the tractor.
Thanks so much for your help.
Larry
Paul
Hi Larry, It looks like Deere has changed the E100 series to S100 series. I haven’t had a chance to see if there are any actual differences. I’m still really busy with snowblowers.
Last I knew the E series and S240 series were all made in the same factory. The E series had a Briggs based engine and the S240 had a Kawasaki based engine. The S240 also had a better/deeper deck so it mulches better.
Ryan
Hi Paul, thanks for the thorough reviews on each model. I had originally purchased an E140 but after the dealer messed up twice in a row, they upgraded me to the E180 free of charge. My question has to do with a snow blowing attachment. Just recently my dedicated John Deere 924de snow blower finally let go for good. I’m considering buying the 44″ snow blower attachment for a short, 30 ft driveway as well as my neighbors comparable driveway. I understand I have enough power but it sounds like the transmission might be the limiting factor. Do you think my machine (E180) will be suitable for light snow blowing for the occasional storm? By no means will I be doing this more than 3-4x a season (New England, mild winters). Thanks!
Paul
Hi Ryan, Normally I wouldn’t recommend it but for your situation, it will last. You most likely will that to add rear weights and chains. Try to keep your total rear weight to less than 600 lbs (including yourself)
Ryan
Paul – thanks for the quick answer – very helpful. Yes, I will have rear wheel chains and (2) weights to help with traction. Thanks again and Merry Christmas.
David Gates
I have a flat yard of less than an acre. Straight mowing back and forth. I was looking at buying a John Deere E130 riding mower. Do you have anything that you would suggest that would be better than a E130.
David
Paul
Hi David, Yes the E130 (Lowes) or the E140 (Home Depot) would be a good choice for you!
Scott Jones
Paul, I really am glad I found your site. With so many out there that just repeat language from the manufacturer’s websites and try to get you to click, it is great to have useful information. I have had a JD LA120 for 15+ years, but it is at the end of its life. It has worked fine on the 1/2-3/4 acres of flat yard I have, but it cannot make it up the other 1/2-3/4 acres of steeper hills. I also have another 1/2 acre+ of rough mowing alongside a long road into our house. I have looked at the JD E170, the Husqvarna YTH24V48, and even the Husqvarna RT-322. Now after reading these comments, I am thinking about Cub Cadets too. Obviously I am all over the place. Which mower(s) would you recommend. Thanks, Scott
Paul
Hi Scott, I recommend the Cub Cadet XT1 GT50 as the first choice. It’s a good mower with a heavy-duty ground-engaging transmission so it will last as long as you Deere. You can buy it online from Cub Cadet and a local dealer will set it up, and test it. You can pick it up at the dealer or they will deliver it for a fee. Here’s the link to it. Cub Cadet XT1 GT50
My second choice is the E170 but the transmission is not quite as strong. You have to spend around $4000 to get a Deere with the same trasmission as the XT! GT50.
I don’t recommend a Husqvrna at this time and if you feel you really want one don’t buy it from the big box store. Too many issues right now with factory assembly and getting parts quickly. By the way the YTH24V48 is an old model. It been replaced with the TS 248XD.
Scott Jones
Thank you for the advice. I have a couple of more questions. First, the CC website says the XT1GT50 is for mostly flat yards. Will it have enough power to get up a steeper slope? Second, is it correct to assume that you do not think the fabricated version is worth $600 more? I am not looking to spend more money. I just hope to get this mower to last a long time like the one it is replacing.
Paul
Hi Scott, The XT1GT50 will handle hills. The websites are not always correct. That said,
If you don’t mind spending the extra money the XT2 GX50 FAB is worth the cost. You get the heavy-duty transmission plus a better seat, armrests, 4-ply tires, ball bearing front wheels, and a nice bumper.
Scott Jones
Thank you again. This was immensely helpful.
JIm
Hi Paul,
My wife & I just bought our first house with just over an acre (1.03) of land. The house, deck, patio, garden, fire pit, etc. all cut into that amount but it’s still a decent piece of land. The land is mostly flat (& currently well-maintained) outside of one slight slope. I’ve been looking at the JD E120 & E130. Would you say they’d be good choices & if so, which would you prefer? If not, what other mower(s) should I be looking at? I’ll be getting a snowblower too so I wouldn’t be doing much more with the mower than fertilizing & getting a pull cart for landscaping. Thanks for all your insight!
Paul
Hi Jim, Those are good choices. Personally, I’d go with the E130 because it comes with the front bumper and has a slightly larger engine. You’ll like the extra power if you have a nice thick lawn. The bumper will save that pretty hood from getting scratches if you get to close to trees or a fence 🙂
By the way, if this is your first house check out the Lawn Care Nut for the best ways to maintain your lawn. And I’ll help you find a good snow blower over at MovingSnow.com
Jim
Paul, thanks for your insight. Would you recommend an extended warranty or just take standard 2 year/120 warranty? I’ll also be sure to check out your other resources as well.
Paul
Hi Jim, John Deere stands behind their machines. There is no reason to buy an extended warranty from a 3rd party.
Kevin
Wow, Thank you for your work on this site. I’m in mid-Missouri – bought a house with many mature trees across pretty flat ground, a small hill drops me to the back yard which is flat and not trees. I decided against a zero turn and have narrowed it down to CC XT2 46″ EFI or the JD E150 or E160. Seems the JD bagger and mulcher crush the Cub’s in user reviews – and I mean crushes them. I forsee hours of mulching leaves and bagging leaves in the Fall. Please advise which I go with or if there is another such as a Husqvarna. Much appreciated.
Paul
Hi Kevin, The XT2 has more features like armrests, 4 ply tires, and ball-bearing front wheels but you are correct people don’t like the new Cub Cadet bagger.
They both cut well and mulch well.
If bagging is a top priority for you then I would suggest the Deere over the Cub Cadet.
John
Hi Paul, I need advice on buying my first Riding Mower. I live in the High Plains of New Mexico, we will be mowing about 2 acres, mostly flat witch consist of clumps of field grass and various weeds, I’m looking at the John Deere E170 Lawn Tractor with the Mulching Attachment, will that work for me?
Paul
Hi John, Yes, that is a good choice but forget the mulching attachment. Clump grasses and weeds tend to have a lot more moisture than regular lawn grasses and the mulch plug will just make a mess. Just side discharge and your area will look good.
William Graff
I have 1/2 acre new fescue and 1/2 acre of prairie grass to cut, all flat, when it’s mature enough to mow plus grass and fall leaf mulching. I’ve narrowed choices to JD160 or 170 and the CC XT1 or XT2 LX 42″ , 46″ or 48″. Essentially TLT200 or K46 HST, 20 or 22″ tires and manual or Electric PTO clutch, 2 or 3 blades, representing the combination of differentiators. I’m leaning toward the CC with the K46 HST, 20″ wheels, electric PTO. Add EFI for $400 ? What are the most important items in the mix for my flat lawn?
Paul
Hi William, I got all three questions and I’ll answer them here.
I am going to recommend the XT2 LX46 EFI. Why?
1. This model comes with a fabricated deck. Fab decks are tougher and will last longer. Prairie grass is a clump grass so the mounds (of grass) can be very hard to mow and hard on a mower. The fabricated deck can handle that type of mowing a lot better than the stamped decks on the other model Cub Cadet and John Deere. The 2-blade fab deck also will get the heavy grass out from under the deck faster so you won’t wear out the deck belt as quickly as a 3-blade deck.
2. The XT2 series also gives you 4 ply tires and ball bearing front wheels. You will have fewer flat tires and the front wheels will last longer bouncing over the clump grasses. Plus, you get armrests and a front bumper.
3. V-twin engines give you the power to get through heavy grasses. The Cub Cadet EFI engine has an electronic governor so it won’t bog down as quickly as a carb engine (the Kohler.) In fact, it gives you about 20% more available power than a carb’d engine. It’s more fuel-efficient and you don’t ever have to worry about bad gas clogging the carb.
You can buy it directly from Cub Cadet here. Cub Cadet XT2 LX46 EFI
It will be assembled, tested, and ready to pick up at a nearby dealer. Right now, until May 3rd they are offering free delivery from that dealer. The dealer will assemble it, test it, deliver it, and show you how to use it.
William Graff
Thanks Paul. I thought I had distilled the decision down to a few items, and you raise even more. 🙂 EFI benefits, fab deck, belt wear…. I marvel and appreciate the education. Cub Cadet engine is OK ?
Paul
Hi William, Yes, The Cub Cadet engine is a good one. In fact, right now we have a good batch of engines on the market. I have no preference between the Cub Cadet, Toro, Kohler 7000, Kawasaki FR, and the Yamaha. They are all built to last in your residential mower.
William Graff
Thanks again Paul. last questions; for this mower, CC bagger attachment or sweeper? Does the CC mulch well, leaves and grass?
Paul
Hi William, Yes, the deck is one of the best mulching decks on the market. It also chews up leaves very well.
It really depends on what you need for your lawn. I have a compost pile so I like to have any leaves chewed up well before I put them on the pile. I use a sweeper. I mulch whenever possible. In the fall I’ll chew up the leaves with the mower deck and if there are too many I’ll use the deck to blow them into windrows. I’ll then use the sweeper to pick up those chewed up leaves.
If you want a perfectly clean lawn then a bagger is a better idea. With the bagger you can also pick up long grass if you didn’t get around to mowing on time. Baggers don’t work well for wet, green grass but work very well for “normal” mowing and leaves.
Julius Green
Great article, I had the hardest time trying to figure out which mower I wanted and needed even after looking them all up individually. This made the choice clear and easy. I appreciate your time and effort. It saved me a lot of time and effort.
Jerrel
Hey Paul. I was looking at an e160 VS an s240 vs the electric cub cadet lawn tractor. Ive read all about the s240 and e160. I have a 1.25 acre lot and I plan to resod or seed the lot with zoysia grass. It’s mostly flat. But I was curious about the electric lawn tractor by cub cadet also. Which might last the longest. Be the easiest to maintain and cut the grass the best.
Paul
Hi Jerrel, Joysia is tough to cut and you need as much power as you can get and an excellent cutting deck. I don’t think the electric Cub Cadet or the E160 are the right choice.
The S240 gives you the power/torque you need and the best cutting deck for that type of grass.
Jerrel Mills
Perfect! That was what I was leaning towards anyway. Much appreciated!
Would it benefit me to move up from the S240 to the x series?
Paul
Hi Jerrel, Well, the Deere dealer will always try to move you up to the X series (more profit) That said, You do get a different deck on the X series and one of the advantages is the optional adjustable mulch kit. You can 100% mulch when the conditions are right or adjust it for partial or full discharge when you need to all without tools.
Is it worth another $1000 for that feature? I don’t think so.
scott
Hi Paul, I am so glad I found your website and reviews. A semi neighbor is selling a ’18 JD E130 with low hours for a fair price. I’ve been looking at reviews all weekend and finally found yours. We have about 3 acres to mow and none of it is flat. From reading most of your reviews, I’m worried about the transmission and motor not holding up to the uphill and sidehill cutting that I’ll be doing. So on to my question: would a walk behind self propelled commercial mower be a good choice? Something like an Exmark, Gravely, etc with somewhere around the 36 to 48″ deck? I don’t necessarily need a sit down garden tractor. Can a walk behind handle the ups and downs and sides as good as somthing like the Cub XT1? Thanks a bunch! Scott
Paul
Hi Scott, if you can safely walk a slope a commercial walk-behind can handle it. They are a lot better than a lawn tractor for slopes. Try out the controls because some like the Toro and Gravely are easy to use – others are not intuitive.
Check out Bradley Mowers. They are commercial machines for about half the price of the “big brands.” Get a sulky with it and you can mow your entire lawn. I highly recommend them. https://www.bradleymowers.com/
Lance10
Great information. It appears that the x370 has a 42 inch deck but it appears to have a smaller engine than a D140 (18.5 vs 22).
I can’t find much details on the transmission other than I’m told “it’s better” and the deck is more substantial.
What is the real difference between the two?
Paul
Hi Lance, The main differences are;
The X370 is made in Wisconsin, the E140 is made in Kentucky
The X370 has a heavy-duty K57 transmission, the E140 uses a light-duty Tuff Torq TLT200B lawn tractor transmission.
The 18.5 HP Kawasaki built engine has about the same power and torque as the Briggs built 22 HP in the E140. (The engine manufacturers use a different SAE power test. That’s why the HP is different)
The deck on the X370 is arguably one of the best cutting decks in the industry. The deck on the E140 is different.
Easy mulch control on the X370. The steering system is very easy.
X370 4 year/300 hour warranty. E140 2 year/120 hour warranty.
Lance
That’s exactly what I was looking for, advice and information wise.
For my application I have been using a D140 with various carts, bagger system, with the ball hitch and e.t.c for pulling DR power vacuum, leveler and other items on a 1/2 acre property that has inclines exceeding 15 degrees. So far there hasn’t been an issue even when filling up the 17P cart. The engine only has 60 hours but they’ve been pretty hard hours considering I’m mowing Zoysia, pulling a DR power
vacuum and such.
The issue I have is that my shed door (that looks like a house with porch, regular windows, e.t.c) I made the door only allow for 42 inch deck without attachments.
The biggest I am able to find is the X370 with three improved deck (which hopefully improves cutting Zoysia grass) but I’m unsure if I can go bigger and have the deck auto attach after pulling it out of the shed.
Thoughts on this type of configuration?
Paul
Hi Lance, a lawn tractor with a 42-inch deck is the best choice if you want the best cut on Zoysia. The X370 has the best cut of all the lawn tractors. Otherwise, you’ll need to move to a zero-turn with a 42-inch fabricated deck. (TimeCutter Model 74744)
Lance
Thanks much for the advice. I’ve decided to step into the X370 w/42″.
It seems to be a consensus among John Deere users that the X3XX series has the much better cutting deck for Zoysia. With your input on transmission, it’s made the decision easier.
I still think I need to research the K47 vs K46 transmission to see what sort of differences there are in more detail, since I’m unsure if that is a good long term solution with all that I pull around.
I know there are mowing deck systems that can attach, so that is still an option.
Paul
Hi Lance, The K57 is a true ground-engaging transmission so it’s designed to pull heavy loads. It’s the minimum transmission I recommend for pulling loads and working on hills. The X370 is the only 42-inch lawn tractor on the market with it. All the other mowers with that heavy-duty trans are 50-54 inch.
Physically, there is no difference in the look and size between the K46 and K57 but the K57 has a charge pump which gives it about 10% more torque. That is significant when looking at longer life and working with heavier loads.
Here is the sell sheet for the trannys https://www.kanzaki.co.jp/en/products/transmission/iht_k_k46k57k58k62k66k72.html
Lance
What are your thoughts about the 1 series tractor with the drive over deck?
Paul
Hi Lance, all around it’s a very nice tractor but it’s the most expensive of all the compact tractors. (Mahindra and Kubota are the leaders in that class)
If you need a tractor for more than just mowing a compact is a very good choice. The Deere offers many attachments and there are plenty of after-market attachments available.
The deck won’t give you the finish cut of a zero-turn but for acreages and farm lawns it’s very rugged and will last. The tractor/mower combination is a great choice if you regularly mow your road ditches. My father has the New Holland 29 HP with a 72-inch deck and bucket loader and it has performed flawlessly since 1996.
Stephen Lamoreaux
Is there a way to adapt a used 44-inch John Deere snowblower designed for a 300 series John Deere for an E140 john deere? It appears that the frame of the E140 is slightly narrower.
Paul
HI Stephen, I doubt it but I suggest going to mytractorforum.com and ask the guys over there. Some of those guys are pretty handly.
Lou Johnson
Paul – great info – thanks. I live in Colorado and I have used my L130 for 15 years primarily to snow blow; I use the lawn mower just to cut down the weeds. The Kohler 22 engine developed a hole in the side, so it is time for a new tractor. The local JD dealer said the E130 would suffice. My question is this – is the extra HP of the E160 worth the price? I note it has a 48 inch mower, which I really don’t need. Thanks.
Paul
Hi Lou, Are you mowing a slope? The older engines really can’t handle a slope greater than 15 degrees and that may be why the engine finally failed.
No, you really don’t get anything you want except the 2 extra horsepower with the E160. But, let me point you in a completely different direction.
The S240 lists the horsepower as 18.5 but the Kawasaki engine in it uses a different horsepower ratings standard than the Briggs engine in the 100 series. So the 18.5 HP really has about the same power as the 22-24 HP engine in the 100 series. This engine uses a different lubrication system so it will handle slopes better. It has the 42-inch deck you want. Finally, it has a stronger transmission than the E130/E160 tractors. The Stronger K46 transmission will handle the extra weight of the snowblower and rear weights better over time. I suggest talking to your Deere dealer about the S240 before you buy another E130 tractor.
Scott Gorski
Paul, I love the page with good info. we purchased a E150 with the 48″ edge deck. With fall coming the plan was to add a mulching kit to get rid of leaves. After doing research on the internet it looks like the mulch option for this mower is a mulch cover and a set of mulching blades, not a complete kit with the extra baffles. Am I correct about this?
Paul
Hi Scott, yes, the Deere 100 series deck is designed so it does not need additional baffles installed to mulch. Just blades and discharge cover.
Brian Dent
Paul, thanks for all the info. We just purchased a new property with 2 acres of lawn and 7 acres of what I’ll call rough grass that we’ll want to knock down 3, 4, maybe 5 times a season. We’ll also need to haul some loads around and there are hills. Looking at a topo map I have 50′ elevation gain over the property. It may be 10 degrees on some locations but that’s not the lawn, that’s in the rough grass. In doing my homework I thought the E180 w/ the 54″ deck was the right choice. After I’ve dug into your articles as well as other comments it seems like the big wheels are a disadvantage on any sloped property. What would your recommendation be?
Paul
Hi Brian, You are correct. The E180 is the wrong tractor for what you want to do. It’s just a lawn tractor made to mow flat ground. As soon as you start pulling stuff and mowing those hills the transmission will fail. So…
If you want to stay in that general price range the Cub Cadet garden tractors are a good choice. They have the heavy-duty transmissions and a heavy-duty fabricated deck. Home Depot carries the XT1 Enduro GT 54 in. Fabricated Deck 25-HP V-Twin Kohler. Your local Cub Cadet Dealer carries the XT2 series with more creature features.
If you want a heavier duty garden tractor take a look at the dealer only Cub Cadet XT3 series. It’s more money but it will last twice as long for the work you want it to do.
I don’t recommend the Husqvarna Garden Tractors (at Lowes) for this application. The decks won’t cut high grass that well.
Finally, If you want to get done faster a good zero-turn mower is also a good choice. The Ariens IKON XL 52 in. 24 HP KOHLER and the Ariens Apex 52 in. 23 HP Kohler are good heavy duty zero-turns that will pull a trailer, mow your lawn quickly and also mow the high grass better than most other ZTRs.
Eddie
Paul, thanks for all the info. I’m on info overload however. Just moved to this small pie shaped lot of 2/3 acre with about a max 6% slope. Several flower beds and hardscape to mow around. Budget is in the $2k range. Just mowing and pulling a cart. I am considering a used JD E170 with JD cart for $1900 (25 hours) or new Cub Cadet XT2 LX42 for the same price. The E170 got my attention because, I think?, it has a K58 transaxle where the Cub Cadet has the K46. Thoughts? Advise? Both John Deere and Cub Cadet dealers are in the area. Thanks.
Paul
Hi Eddie, The E170 has the K46. You have to spend well over $4500 to get the K57/K58 – K57 3/4 inch axles, K58 1 inch) in a Deere. The price is right for the Deere but it has no warranty. The Cub Cadet has a 3-year warranty.
Eddie
Thanks Paul. My bad – when I saw JD’s 2019 model chart I thought the “Heavy-Dutyl Hydrostatic Transmission” referred to the K58 (or something above the K46) and the E110 thru E150’s had the K46. I did find elsewhere on your site the info on the transmissions of the those machine’s transmissions which seem a step (or two?) below the K46. I’m surprised that JD sells the 170 with wider rear wheels than the K46 is spec’d for! Before moving from the northeast I sold my GX345 (54″ deck, wheel weights, tire chains, large cart and snowthrower) that had the K71 transmission which was a beast (at least for me). I’m now sorry I sold it but it was a package deal with the snowthrower which I don’t need in SC! I am planning on ordering the CC XT2 LX42.
Paul
Hi Ghost, The K46 transmission is designed for 42-50 inch decks and 18-20 inch rear tires on the lawn tractor. It works well and will last for all slopes under 15 degrees.
Some manufacturers “stretch” that design spec and also install it in lawn tractors with 54-inch decks and 23-24 inch rear wheels. If the mower is used on flat properties it will usually last but when it is used on slopes with that large deck and wheels – it doesn’t last.
Yes, JD also uses the K46 in the E160 and E170. The 48 inch E160 is fine. The E170 has too large of wheels and too large of a deck for mowing slopes with the K46.
Cub Cadet uses the K46 in models with decks up to 50 inches and 20 inch rear tires. Models with the larger rear wheels are called Garden Tractors and use the Heavier duty K58 transmission. The XT1 and XT2 GT series will last on slopes.
The basic rule of thumb is: Stay away from mowers with 50-54 inch decks and 23-24 inch rear wheels and cost less than $2500 from all brands if you have slopes to mow.
STEVEN
I’m in the market for a new lawn tractor and I was considering the JD E160; however, after reading your article, I have begun questioning my potential choice. I have to cut a 3 acre lawn that has significant slope, and flat and smooth it is not. Do you have any recommendations?
Paul
Hi Steven, the Cub Cadet XT1 and XT2 Garden tractors would be a better choice for slopes. You may also want to check out the Cub Cadet Z-Force S zero-turn.
Chris
Thank you for the article Paul. I’m new to riding lawnmowers and your articles have been very helpful and detailed. I’m in need is a riding mower and for my budget, i think I decided on the JD E130-160 models. I have about 1/3 acre to cut with half of it as sod and the other half seed blanket/pasture type with some bumps and patches of grass. It will be another few months before I can get it to be nice. And I may need to use one of those carts that catch leaves/acorns (Btw our land is basically all flat) Anyway, when I call the dealers, they agree that the E series is good, but if I’d like the engine and transmission to last longer then I should think of going to the S240 model. I know they’re trying to upsell me but is it worth the extra money? I’ll probably use it about 30-35 hours per year. Thanks!
Paul
Hi Chris, The E120 and E130 models are the same mower – just a different size engine. Either on will be a good choice for the lowest price.
The D160 is the best for you with a larger deck, larger engine and the same transmission as the S240 series. The engine is the Extended life engine and no matter what the dealer is telling you that engine will last as long as the one in the S240 series.
The Home Depot has these available with a free lawn cart right now: https://homedepot.sjv.io/0B3JJ
Chris
Thank you Paul I appreciate it!
Chris
Paul, one more question. I noticed on other replies to other people you’ve also recommended the craftsman pro and the Cub cadets. I always thought John Deere was the best, is there any one brand that you would recommend over the other? Or would it just be personal preference based on the different options/prices? Thank you so much.
Paul
Hi Chris, – John Deere E120-E160 series is a great budget-friendly line. It has the best cutting decks.
– If you want to do more than just mow your lawn the Cub Cadet XT1 are a direct alternative. The Cub Cadets offer a larger transmission and the strongest frame so you can pull more weight in your lawn cart and engines that can mow side-hills for years without blowing up. They also mow very well. Because of that, I recommend Cub Cadet more than any other brand.
– The Troy-Bilt Super Bronco series is also a great alternative.
– I can’t recommend Craftsman Pro at this time. Sears is too busy with other problems to keep the tractors in stock. Sears Hometown Stores have better stock availability in the stores but you are stuck buying what that store has in stock.
Chris
Thanks again for your help Paul! I really appreciate it.
Chris
Paul, I just purchased the Cub Cadet xt2 42″ model, delivery on Friday. I have another question regarding my mower related also to landscaping. If I need to I can ask someplace else.
You mentioned somewhere that you owned a landscaping company in the past? We have a new home and new landscaping, most of the grass is sod and the rest shade tolerant seed blanket. Well the seeded part is very patchy (the builder didn’t seed well) and I’m afraid of ruining my mower in all the rough patches (there are also A LOT of small branches, twigs and acorns on there as well) How can I “smooth out” the patches? Do I just overseed and wait until it grows in and fills up nicely? And will a lawn sweeper pick up branches, twigs and acorns? Thank you again!
Paul
Hi Chris, If the small branches and twigs are the diameter of your little finger or less they won’t hurt your mower. It will make a lot of noise when it chews them up though. Anything larger than your little finger should be picked up before you mow.
High-speed lawn sweepers like the Agri-Fab 44 in. 25 cu. ft. Tow-Behind do a good job of picking up most debris but they don’t pick up acorns. The acorns are too small. Also if the twigs are longer than 8-10 inches they get stuck in the brush and the sweeper can’t throw it into the hopper.
If your ground is level and the grass just spotty the easiest way is to take a garden rake, scratch the dirt loose in those bare spots, throw down some seed, scratch it in with the rake and then walk on the patch to pack it down firmly. The seed doesn’t have to be covered all the way – just touching the bare dirt. Water it every other day and then wait. This time of year you’ll see new grass in about 10 days and it will be filled out well by fall.
Be patient. Mow that area as high as your mower can go for the first two years. That will allow the grasses to spread out and fill all the spots. Mowing high also shades out a lot of weed seeds so you won’t have to spray for weeds as much.
You didn’t mention where you live but if you live north of Interstate 70 here is a good mix to use: Scotts Turf Builder Grass Seed – Sun and Shade Mix or Pennington Smart Seed Sun and Shade.
Chris
Paul, thanks again for all the help and advice! What a great resource. We’re in Chicago so yes those will work.
Paul
Hi Chris, Excellent! I was in Morris/Joliet last weekend. I miss Portillo’s and real Gyros…
Adam
Hello
Great article. Was looking at the JD 100 series for cost. I have 2 acres of dirt, weeds, grass, etc, (ie pasture?). Can you confirm, it sounds like the 100 series are too lightweight / out of scope for this job?
If so, any recommendations… preferably from JD?
Regards
Adam
Paul
Hi Adam, Lawn tractors – all of them are not designed for that type of work. 1. The decks are designed to mow lawns and won’t raise up high enough. The max they cut is 4 inches. 2. the decks won’t cleanly cut grass, weeds, etc., that’s 12 inches or taller. 3. They are not designed for long grass and the long grass gets wrapped around the spindles which will ruin the deck drive belts and can burn out the electric clutch. 4. They are not designed to hit rocks, stumps, dirt mounds and you can not only bend a break the blades but also warp the deck shell so it is unusable.
John Deere does not make a lawn tractor that will do the job. The closest item they have is a 700 series with a rear 3 point brush mower.
The best and most economical solution is a pull behind rough cut mower. Use your ATV or remove the deck from a used lawn/garden tractor to pull it with. There many different brands available at farm stores but I prefer the Acrease Brand from Kunz Engineering. Spend the extra money for one of their rough cut mowers and it will last you many, many years.
Suzie
In need of some advice because I don’t want to upgrade or sell my E100 John Deere just for more pull power. I am just needing it cut couple acres and pull some gravel in my little wagon instead of a wheelbarrow all the time. John Deere in my town in Ontario tells me it won’t last that long. I take care of it only cut the grass 20 min at a time and let it cool down. Hubby trying to make me spend more money and don’t want to. He is even convinced it’s not going to last. I bought it last summer. We just took it out and starts and runs fine. Will change the oil etc. The warranty will be up. We had to take it in once but it was not of our fault. The belt went off week after we got it. We put that on ourselves. Hubby is pissing me off . I don’t want to buy another one right now. Need the money it to expand my business.
Paul
Hi Suzie, if you are only mowing 20-30 minutes a week and you limit the weight in your cart to less than 250lb (115 Kg) your E100 will last many years. Just so you know – the John Deere salesmen are just that – a salesman. It’s their job to sell you something and then 2 years later get you to buy something higher priced. Even if you don’t need it.
Thomas
Hi Paul,
I recently purchased a home with just over 1 acre to mow. This lot has several small hills, the worst being approximately an 8ft rise in elevation at about 22 degrees. I also have a lot of landscaping to maneuver around and a long driveway that would be nice to eventually take advantage of a small plow or blower attachment. From reading some of your articles this puts me in a small garden tractor category. Can you please provide some make and model recommendations? I’d like to avoid going over the $3,000 – $3,500 range.
Thanks,
Thomas
Paul
Hi Thomas, The Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro Series GT 50 in. 25-HP V-Twin Kohler Hydrostatic Gas Garden Tractor fits your budget and will do a great job for you.
peter
Hi, Paul and thanks for your coverage / comments. I have 2 level acres, split in equal parts – one of which is a pasture that needs to be cut every several months. Someone selling an E140 told me he thinks it will be way too slow, which surprised me – what do you think ? thx
Paul
Hi peter, The E140 is a great mower for you one-acre yard. You can easily mow it in 30-45 minutes.
It’s not really made to cut the pasture but if you raise the deck all the way up and lift the discharge cover up you can get it done. If you let the grass in the pasture get more than 6-8 inches tall you will have to mow it twice to get an even cut. If you only mow it every few months you may have to mow it one way and mow again at 90 degrees for it to cut the long grass at all. Stop every 30 minutes or so, shut off the tractor and look under the deck. If long stalks of grass are wrapping around the spindles cut that off with a utility knife. If you don’t the spindle could bind up and break the deck belt.
Paul
Hi Kevin, Tuff Torque makes two smaller transmissions and you can find those lighter trannys in the E series John Deere.
Tuff Torq TLT200A – E110, E120, E130
Tuff Torq TLT200B – E140, E150, E160
Tuff Torq K46AC – E170, E180 (Because of the K46 transmission in the E180 I only recommend it for flat land. The trans is too light and the rear wheels too large to use that mower on hills.)
Many people want a stronger transmission than the K46 for mowing hills, using a snow blower and ground engaging work. The K46 works well for just mowing lawns but its life is a lot shorter when used for the more demanding tasks.
Yes, the gear ratio is changed for the tractors with larger, 20 inch tires. Tuff Torq actually does not rate it for 22 inch. Here is the correct spec page from Tuff Torq: Tuff Torq K46 Specs. You can see the different axle ratios and torque.
Kevin
Hi Paul, good article and I agree the John Deere’s in this price range are very good values. They are equipped with a stout frame, good build quality and generally about as good as one can find in their price range. I did notice that you stated the K46 Tuff Torque transmission as a medium duty unit? I checked the companies website and they list it as there lightest duty unit rated for 150 ls ft. of torque. Do they change the gear ratio for the large 22 inch tires so that travel speed is equal to the 18 inch wheel models? Thanks Paul.
Branden
Hello, awesome website and article, thank you! I’m a first time home buyer who has just acquired a lawn with a decent little hill on it. I’ll move in during the next month and I’m trying to figure out what kind of mower would be the best choice. The total years is about “.50-.90 acres” per the description. Any guidance you could offer would be very much appreciated. I’ve created a imgur album below with a few photos of the hill below, thank you.
https://imgur.com/a/qJEOrKB
Paul
Hi Branden,
Good: John Deere E120 42 in. 20 HP V-Twin Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor. Good engine – great cut – average turning radius.
Better: Craftsman 27333 46″ 20 HP 656cc Briggs & Stratton Riding Mower with Smart Lawn Technology. Better engine – great cut – average turning radius.
Best: Craftsman ProSeries 27042 46″ 725cc Kohler Riding Mower with TurnTight Extreme® & Smart Lawn Technology. Best engine – Best Cut – Best Turning Radius – best transmission for your hills.
Michael
Hi Paul, fantastic information!!! I am seriously looking to purchase a riding lawn tractor and looking at the JD E120 or E160. I have about 1.25 acres where in certain areas have a little bumpy ride with some exposed roots… I also have lights along the side of my driveway and I have read reviews that the JD has a better turning axis versus the CC and other brands.
Can you please provide any recommendations to the validity of the turning axis, whether it is worth getting a 48″ deck with the ELS versus saving some money and getting the 42″ deck and a smaller HP engine.
Since I have a lot of trees, I cannot wait to use the sweeper attachment to pickup all the leaves across my entire property. Otherwise, I may use the tractor to drive around and haul mulch on the back.
thank you so much in advance for your response…
Paul
Hi Michael, The turning radius of the E120 and E160 is 18 inches. Cub Cadet XT1 and XT2 are 16 inches. Craftsman Pro is 5 inches. Simplicity is 14 inches. So all the other brands have a shorter turning radius than a John Deere.
The ELS engine will give you 50% more life than the regular “Intek” in the E120. The Kohler 7000 series in the Craftsman Pro and Cub Cadet lawn tractor will also give you more life than the engine in the E120.
I have one acre and use a 42 inch mower. I have the 42 because I have a lot of areas where I can’t get a 48-50 inch mower through. I would have a 46-50 inch if I didn’t have all that landscaping. I’d save 15-20% in mowing time with the larger decks.
One more detail. The Craftsman Pro and Cub Cadets all use a heavier duty transmission than the E120 and E160 Deere but with the work you plan to do that really is not that big of a deal.
I’ll give you a few links to tractors to choose from:
Craftsman ProSeries 27042 46″ 725cc Kohler Riding Mower with TurnTight Extreme® & Smart Lawn Technology
Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro Series LT 50 in. 24 HP V-Twin Kohler Hydrostatic Gas Front-Engine Lawn Tractor
John Deere E160 48 in. 24 HP V-Twin ELS Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor
By The Way – this is my favorite lawn sweeper: Agri-Fab 44 in. 25 cu. ft. Tow-Behind Lawn Sweeper
Michael
Hi Paul, first and foremost thank you!!! I will certainly look into the other lawn tractors you recommended and certainly appreciate you sending me the lawn sweeper!
If I decide to go with the JD, I am so torn because I want the engine of the E160, but only want a 42″ deck. I do not want to pay the premium of going to the S240 as I want to keep my price at or under 2K. I think my best option might be with the Cub or Craftsman models but can you recommend a 42″ deck model? OR, in your expert opinion, for what I am looking to do (leaves, carry some mulch and mow approx 1.25 acres, would the E120 suffice for years to come? (and I should not worry about the extra HP and ELS that the 160 offers.
Thanks
Michael
Paul
Hi Michael, The biggest issue I have with the E120 is that you are paying about $300 for green paint. You can get a comparable mower for around $1500 from any other brand. In fact, I can show you a great cutting 42 inch Cub Cadet with the long life EFI engine (electronic fuel injection) for $150 less. All around it is rated just as good as the cut on the Deere, and has better reliability.
From The Home Depot: Cub Cadet LT 42 in. 547cc Fuel Injected Engine Gas Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor with Cub Connect Bluetooth
Michael
Hi Paul, thank you again for all the info…. I am seriously leaning to the Cub Cadet 547cc model you pointed out. I cannot find anyplace what the HP is on this unit? Would you happen to know this information? For the size of my lawn and the extra work I stated above I will use the tractor for, should HP be reason for concern?
Paul
Hi Michael, In this price range HP is not a concern. All the riding mowers from Cub Cadet have enough HP to do the job well. My guess based on the 547cc and where the model fits in the Cub Cadet line is about 19 HP.
Cub Cadet also has an 18 HP (Home Depot) and a 22 HP (dealer only) 42-inch model. Cub Cadet XT2 LX42
Alex
HI Paul,
Great reading. I’m considering purchasing my first JD and the article is very helpful. I’ve done a detail spec comparison of the 100 series and I’m torn between the 130 and 140. The key differences I notice:
130 42″ 2 blade, 12V outlet none, Cruise, 13 gauge deck, Manual PTO,2 Mower Wheels, 2 Bar bumper, EZ oil filter)
140 (48″ 3blade , 12V outlet accessory, No Cruise, 12 gauge deck, Power PTO, 4 Mower Wheels, w/o bumper, Std oil filter)
2 questions
1) On paper the 140 seems to have more (expensive) content than the 130 but they are the same price. Am I missing something or is this combination a wash? An insight why JD would price them the same?
2) What’s your opinion about the reliability of power PTO? Is it prone to problems, enough so that manual is the better choice for someone who doesn’t care about the convenience of power.
Any advice would be appreciate. I’m ready to buy soon.
Thanks
Alex
Paul
Hi Alex, Yes they are identical in every way including cruise. The E130 has a 42-inch 2-blade deck, an additional front bumper, and the EZ Oil change system. The E140 has a 48-inch 3-blade deck, electric PTO, but no EZ oil change.
Why is Deere charging the same price? The E130 is a step up from the E120 and has more features than the E120 at $1899. The E130 has one of the best cutting decks in the industry. It’s a good deck for up to about one acre.
The E140 deck is “average” – it cuts well but other decks are higher rated. It’s a good deck for up to 2 acres. It’s comparatively priced with other brands 48-50 inch lawn tractors.
I’m guessing that Deere thinks the EZ Oil change and bumper are worth about the same money as the electric clutch and extra 6 inches on the E140’s deck.
Electric PTO is easier on the deck belts. Over the years you will have to replace the deck belt every 2-3 years with a mechanical PTO but only every 5 years or so with the electric. Electric PTO rarely goes bad.
Keith
Hi Paul, Do you consider a 17 foot rise over about 120 feet a steep hill? What is the reasoning that the E100 and the like aren’t meant for hill? Not enough power or weak transmission?
Thank you!
Paul
Hi Keith, The transmission is the problem with most of these. It’s not that they are weak – they are just sized for “normal” flat or gently sloping lawns. If you buy one of these and you have a hill there is a good chance the transmission will not last as long as the rest of the mower.
The E100, in particular, is not designed for slopes. Or rough Lawns. Or pulling anything more than small yard cart.
Your slope is not steep – it’s only 8 degrees so any of the other John Deere lawn tractors will work well.
Kim
I’m looking at purchasing an E 140. But, I read the 100 series isn’t the tractor to buy if you are mowing on slopes. My yard is 1-2 acres and it is all hill, although when mowing I’m usually mowing perpendicular to the hill. Because I only want to spend less than 2k what are my options? If I purchased an E140 can I expect problems in a year or tow?
Paul
Hi Kim, Sorry I’ve gotten behind this week. If you only want to spend 2K and have a tractor that will last on your hills the best choice is the 46 inch Craftsman Pro model 27042. It’s very easy to use and will last on your hill. Plus it’s less than $2000. Check it out here: Craftsman ProSeries 27042 46″ 725cc Kohler Riding Mower with TurnTight Extreme® & Smart Lawn Technology
David
Hi Paul, I just started looking at lawn tractors and found your website. Informative and enjoyable reading. I’ve had three back surgeries with more probable. I need a comfortable seat to mow 1/3 to 1/2 acres of flat residential lawn. The price of the E160/E170 is near the price of the S240 42″ with the current $200 rebate from John Deere. How do the engines compare between the two model lines? Do you have any experience with the different seats? I am also considering the E120/E130 models, the Cub Cadet Enduro XT1s, and the Craftsman Pro 27042. (Yeah, I read Consumer Reports). I am price conscious but don’t mind paying a little more if the value is there. Any insights you may have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, David
Paul
Hi David, The E160/170 uses the ELS engine. In my opinion, it is the same quality as the Kawasaki in the S240 and the Kohler V-twin in a Cub Cadet or Craftsman Pro. All of these engines will give you about 50% more life than the one in the E120/130/140/150.
The S240 uses the same 42 deck as the 100 series so it will cut like the E110 CR tested. It’s a different deck than the X300 but as you can see by their report – there is very little difference. At $2200 the S240 is a good deal and if you have a good dealer it will be a good choice.
Dave
The S240 48″ is 2799 not 2200,I like the 18.5 Kawasaki. What’s the difference of a reg.and ELS B&S engine?
Paul
Hi Dave, Thanks, The ELS stands for extended life series. The engines are rated for 50% more life than the standard, Intek, series. The ELS rating applies to ELS engines, Intek Plus, and Craftsman Platinum. Internally, the biggest difference is there are oil ports throughout the interior of the engine delivering lube oil to all the critical areas. I strongly recommend an ELS if you have hills to mow.
Dave
Hi Paul, I am really interested in getting either the JD 24hp ELS B&S 48″ JD or the JD S240 18.5 Kawasaki 48″, which way would you pick?
Paul
Hi, Dave, the Briggs ELS engine has an excellent reputation and will last a long time. In my opinion, the Kawasaki FR series engines are not worth any extra money. The E160 cuts very well. The S240 does have a different deck but you will only notice the difference if you are a perfectionist and have a perfectly manicured lawn. In other words, I can’t find any good reasons to tell you to spend the extra $500.
Frank H
I’m not following you Paul. Where did you get the e170 trans being 30% stronger from? I thought the whole e-series used the same (weak) K46 trans? And that the 170 and 180 both were particularly bad choices because of the larger wheels, they exceed the recommended max stated by Tuff Torq.
Actually upon further investigation I found there are actually 4 different transmissions used across the e105 to e180 lineup but from what I read both the 160 and 170 use the Tuff Torq K46AC. ?? I’d really like to know if the 170 is better as I’m shopping myself this next weekend, so far I’m looking at the 140 or the 170.
Paul
Hi Frank, Yes, In reality, it’s only three. the E100 is a CVT. The E160, E170, and E180 use the K46. The rest use one of two variations of the Tuff Torq TLT200. (the letters at the end usually denote mounting, linkage, and special accessories like a differential lock, hydraulics or oil reservoir.)
I can’t find where I state 30% stronger anywhere in this article. The K46 works well for tractors with up to 22-inch tires and a 48-inch deck or less. DO NOT buy a K46 equipped tractor with the larger tires and a 54-inch deck – like the E180 or Husqvarna LGT 2654.
Compared to the E140 the E160 has the K46 trans, ELS engine, and the 30-second oil change. Compared to the E140 the E170 has the larger tires, K46 trans, ELS engine and 30-second oil change. The larger tires will help it to ride a little smoother if your lawn is rough.
Frank H
Sorry, I should have read further into the comments! Saw your post listing the latest transmission changes. You had mentioned 30% stronger in a reply to Peter below. I tried to reply under his post but it seems to have moved me to the top of the comments so it was a little out of context. I’m still on the fence a bit, the 170 appeals to me just because I’m a big boy and a bigger mower seems like a better fit but I’m really not a fan of that scammy “Easy Change” oil system. Thanks so much for the article and the reply!
Paul
HI Frank, Oh, I found it. As usual, I guess I was confused. The trans in the 160 is not as strong as the one in the 170. The TLT200 is still a good trans and has an excellent reputation in lawn tractors.
Yes, I like larger tires myself.
Paul
Hi Theresa, Since you are having the same problem with two brand new tractors I am going to assume it’s not the tractor’s fault. Something else is causing this and it’s most likely your fuel. Fuel-related issues and bad fuel are NOT covered by your warranty. That’s why they don’t want to fix it.
So first question. Did you put the same fuel from the same gas can in both tractors? If yes, put the remaining fuel in your car. Then remove the cap from the gas can and let it sit for at least an hour with the opening hanging down. We are trying to remove all the gas, water, and other debris from the gas can.
Second question. Is your gas can sealed? Does it have a cap for the spout and you can close the vent? I’m assuming water and/or dirt has gotten into your gas can. You need a new gas can. I’ll leave a small write up at the end of this comment to help you get the right one.
Third question. Can you or do you know someone who can change the fuel filter? Go to the John Deere dealer and get a new fuel filter (about $15) Also stop at an auto parts store or the auto section at WalMart and get a can of SeaFoam. (About $9) Remove the old filter and let the fuel tank drain as much of the existing fuel out of it as possible. A plastic or metal can, dishpan, etc. The gas tank full can hold 1.5 gallons.
Install the new fuel filter. Add 1/4 cup of SeaFoam to the tractor’s gas tank. Fill the tank with fresh E10 – 87 octane fuel. DO NOT use E15!!!!!
Start up the tractor and go mow your lawn. Over the next hour, it should straighten out. It may blow a little white smoke during this time. If it doesn’t straighten out, please write back and we can take the next steps.
Yes, You need a new Gas Can!
With today’s fuels you need a gas can that seals tight. It helps the fuel last longer and the escaping vapors won’t wreck the environment. But the biggest problem is to find one that works. The cheap ones ($20 or more now) don’t have vents so it takes forever to fill the tank on your lawn tractor. The cheap ones are also flimsy and the spouts break after the first year.
Well, I’ve found two brands that work great! I have both brands and I use them all the time. They are vented inside the spout so the fuel pours quickly yet seals tightly when not in use. I’ll give you links at Amazon for two sizes. I suggest buying the size so that you don’t keep more than a month of fuel around the house.
“recommended” No-Spill 1405 2-1/2-Gallon Poly Gas Can. A good size for snow blowers and push mowers.
“recommended” No-Spill 1450 5-Gallon Poly Gas Can (CARB Compliant) This one has a second handle in the back so it is very easy to use and hang onto when pouring into your fuel tank. A good size for lawn tractors and zero-turns.
If you have a problem holding a gas can the SureCan is a great can. It’s very comfortable to use to use and built well.
SureCan – Gas Can with Rotating Spout.
Fuel Stabilizer: When I go to the gas station and buy fuel I always put fuel stabilizer in the storage tank. It helps keep the fuel fresh and some stabilizers also clean your carb and fuel system without messing it up. There a many good brands but I’ve used SeaFoam for years and it’s always worked well. I use 2 tablespoons per gallon of fuel.
Seafoam
Other fuels stabilizers to check out: Fuel Stabilizers
Have I helped you? If would you like to buy from your local dealer or store but still want to support TodaysMower just click on this link and buy anything you need. I’ll make a small commission from the sale. Buy at Amazon. TodaysMower.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, and we get a commission on purchases made through our links to Amazon.
Dave
Great answer! You crossed the Ts and dotted the I’s
theresa
I just purchased an e-100 john deere after only 2 hours It started to stumble and hesitate ,so I returned it and got another on This did the same thing after 5 hours Now no one wants to fix it Not Lowes where I purchased it or even John Deere Everyone says its over 30 days. I have had it for about 40 days
Jim Goodpasture
Paul, need recommendation between Cub XLT2 and Deere D160/170 for uneven terrain (bumpy yard) on 10-degree slope. Yard has trees so mulching leaves is a must. Looking for most comfortable, serviceable ride. Thanks
Paul
The larger rear tires on the D170, XT1 GT50, and XT2 SLX50 will give you the best ride. The XT1 GT50 has a heavier duty transmission than the other two.
All three cut well but the XT1 GT50 and XT2 SLX50 mulch better than the Deere.
All three are easy to work on but the deck on the Cub Cadets is a little easier to take on and off the mower. (Just 4 pins and no belt guides to mess with)
Charles A. Castlen
You wrote of the cheapest model It is not designed to mow long slopes or hills.
I live on a hill. My total lot is .6 acre but my patio house and driveway done get mowed. I’m guessing I have .45 acre I mow.
My front yard is 30 paces from the street to the front sidewalk that loops around my house.
I’m guessing the rise from the street to the sidewalk is 20 to 30 feet. Just curious if this meets your definition of a long slope or hill?
Paul
Hi Charles, Yes it does. Please look at the E110 or E120 instead.
Greg
Hey Paul/
Thanks for the great information as usual. I am down to the Siimplicity2691332 (48 in fabricated deck) 2799$, Deere E170 2399$, and the Craftsman pro 27046 2799$, I have 1 acre mostly level yard and do not plan to add attachments but will use a lawn sweep, cart, and spreader. Questions: Will the K58 last longer than the K46 for my use? Do any of these 3 stand out above the others?
Thank You Paul
Paul
Hi Greg, You don’t need the K58 for your yard but the Craftsman Pro or the John Deere E170 will cut better than the Simplicity’s fabricated deck.
The Simplicity is unique and uses a ground following deck. It has a rear roller that goes all the way across the back of the deck and controls the cut height. There is more maintenance on this system and the fabricated deck does not cut as well as the other two tractors you selected.
Chris Kennedy
Paul, really enjoying your lawn mower articles. I am moving to a bigger lawn and have kind of information overload. I have only owned a self propelled honda mower, never had a need for anything else. I am needing to purchase a riding mower for the new place, 4.5 acres total but probably only mow 2.5-3 it consistently. It is very flat. I have looked at a used JD X320 it’s a 2012 model with 145 hours on it and they’re asking $1800. I have a husqvarna and cub cadet dealer nearby as well. I read the article on the cub cadets, I think after reading I would lean more towards them over the husqvarna, unless you think otherwise. I guess I am just wanting to pick your brain on buying used or is it better to bite the bullet and get new with warranty. The X320 looks to be in good shape, but it is close to buying a new cub cadet with warranty. Any advice would be appreciated, just trying not to break the bank.
Thanks,
Chris
Paul
Hi Chris, I’m not a big fan of buying used unless you are very familiar with troubleshooting and repairing lawn tractors. If you are not used to working on them and you have the dealer repair it the cost of repairs can easily reach $500-$1500. A 6-year-old X320 can easily need $400 in just tune-up/maintenance parts and labor. (blades, belts, engine tune-up, and filters)
For 2.5-3 acres I suggest going with a 54-inch deck. The smaller decks like on the X320 will take you twice as long to mow.
David
Hi Paul, thanks for the guide
One thing I am not seeing, which is most important to me, is which you suggest for moderate snow removal of a 30ft flat driveway. I just bought a home and am looking for my first tractor and dont want to screw up a purchase like that. I have 1/2 acre of mostly grass all flat.
Thanks
Paul
Hi David, I have another site that is for snow. movingsnow.com. If your driveway is only 30 foot long you may want a walk behind instead of a tractor mounted blower. I deal with snow blowers there in even more detail than I do with tractors here. Please tell me how wide is your driveway, how long, paved, gravel, and about where you live. Do you need to clear a spot off your lawn for dogs and will you be using it on other places? (like your grandma’s driveway) That will give me a good idea of what will work well for you.
David
Paul i would actually like to just use a blade. It is a concrete driveway about 20 ft wide and we are in NJ, not too much snow in these parts. Accumulation is not an issue for me as I am in a col de sac and can put it anywhere. Are there mid range E100s that can push snow? Or is that well out of my price range?
Paul
Hi David, The E120, E130, E140, E150 and E160 will all work with a snow blade. You will most likely need a rear weight kit and rear tire chains also.
Paul Ensign
Hi Paul-
Appreciate the article.
I am considering the E140 since I don’t like the new quick filter change. I would be mowing some flat areas only once or twice a month, but also want to use the tractor to haul loose rocks in a cart from areas I eventually want to mow. Is the E140 up to the task of hauling the rocks, or should I look into the 200 or 300 series models? Just wondering how heavy a load it can pull in a lawn cart.
Thanks,
Paul
Paul
Hi Paul, Only fill your cart 1/2 full of rocks and the E140 will do fine. Keep your loads under 500 lbs and it will last for you.
John Deere makes lawn tractors. They are designed to mow your yard and do light work such as pulling a lawn sweeper, dethatcher, and a small cart. They pretty much use the same lawn tractor transmission in all the mowers under $4000. To get a heavier duty transmission you actually have to go all the way up to the $4000 X370.
mike
Hi! Why don’t the new E140 John Deere mowers have the new 30 second filter change. What is special about the E140 keeping the old style filter. There must be a reason for keeping the old style, on this mower. Thanks Mike
Paul
Hi Mike, I think John Deere made a good decision by only adding this to half the line this year. Why?
1. People don’t like change. Half the potential buyers will wait “to see if it’s any good.”
2. If there is a problem or recall only half the mower line is affected. Nowadays only a few negative reviews or problems can greatly affect the sale of a product.
3. Personally, if I had a choice, I would pick the model without the 30-second oil change. Why? I think their pricing is absolutely nuts! They want $40 for an oil filter and 3/4 quart of oil! Yes, It’s cheaper than having your local Deere dealer change your oil because they typically charge $100 for picking it up, $70 or more for the labor and then more for the 2 quarts of oil and a filter painted green.
What really irks me about the new system is not even the cost but the fact that they want you to still change it every 50 hours. With today’s new synthetic oils anyone can operate their tractor engine 100 hours or more between oil changes and never worry about the engine. In fact, Briggs & Stratton now has commercial ZTR engines with a 500-hour oil change and walk-behind engines that never need an oil change
Dave
Paul, another great answer, I agree 100%! What is left in the bottom of that crankcase after you twist off that old filter?
Eric
Hi Paul –
Curious as to you opinion on snow blades on some of these mowers. I have a small yard (1/3) acre and short drive (30-40′), and I would prefer to use a blade as opposed to a blower strictly because I don’t want to store and maintain a blower. Thoughts? I figured I would be more than safe with an E170 based on this article.
Paul
Hi Eric, a snow blade will take up more room than a 24-inch snow blower. You should also have tire chains and a rear weight kit to make these tractors work well in snow. And last but not least snow blades are great for the first 2-6 inch snow but you have to have somewhere to go with the next snow and the next snow and the next snow. Your tractor only goes 5.5 mph so it doesn’t push the snow fast enough to pile it up high like an ATV or the city plow would.
You didn’t mention where you live so I don’t know how much snow and the types of snow you get to take this discussion any farther.
Eric
I’m in central Ohio. We haven’t typically had too many consecutive snow days where we would see that much snow. But a mix’s of anything from heavy and wet to light and fluffy.
I figure the blade on the tractor would take up as much space during the season. But easier to stow in the off season. Sheds aren’t an option unfortunately.
Paul
Hi Eric, Got it! It’s worth giving the blade a try. In the off-season, you can always take the blade off the frame and hang them up on the wall. With a blade and rear weight kit, your tractor will take up about the same room as a 4X8 sheet of plywood laying on the floor.
John
Hi Paul
Can you talk a little about the differences between the TLT200a and the TLT200b transmissions.
I tried to google the TLT200b found in the e140 that I am looking at and found almost nothing for info.
I have one hill on my property with around a 30 degree slop but only for about 6 feet.
Would the e140 be sufficient?
Thanks.
Paul
Hi John, I also don’t have any information about the differences but the right-hand letter is usually just an attachment or mounting option of the transmission. Internally and performance wise they will be the same. Why John Deere even spelled that out is a mystery.
The E140 will work just fine. Just mowing and not pulling heavy loads that short of a slope will not cause premature failure of these transmissions.
Peter
Paul, your insights and information are great. Is the E170 “better” than the E160? I am inclined to get the E170 because I perceive the transmission is better. Any suggestions on the pros and cons between the E170 vs. the E160.
Bryan
Same question. What are the advatages of a larger tire, and 1hp?
Paul
Hi Bryan, Larger tires give you a smoother ride. Wider tires give you more flotation on soft ground.
1hp in a 24-25 hp engine doesn’t give you enough “extra” power to notice but they can charge more for it…
Alan
I went by the John Deere dealer and looked at various models. I was thinking I wanted a 48″ deck for my 1 acre, mostly flat semi-bumpy lawn. The dealer really suggested sticking with a 42″ deck. Said it will mow better, lawn will look better and bag much better. I will bag sometimes but mostly mulch. What is your experience with the 48 v 42 bagging and quality of cut?
Paul
Hi Alan, If you are bagging green grass the 42-inch deck has two 21 inch blades – the 48-inch deck uses three shorter blades so in theory, the 42 should throw the grass into a bagger better. In reality, the blade tip speed is the same for both decks so they will both be about the same for getting green grass into the bagger. You won’t have a problem with leaves and dry grass. A 48 inch deck will also fill up a 2-bin bagger faster so you will be stopping more to empty it. I don’t recommend a 3-bin bagger for picking up green grass.
Whether it cuts better depends on your lawn, the type of grass and how high you mow. If you have a bluegrass/fescue lawn that is fairly smooth and you mow it at the right height (2.5 to 3.5 inches) the 48 will cut as well as a 42. If you cut it lower, if your lawn has a lot of bumps and you mow short the 42 will not hit/scalp the lawn as much.
Josh
Paul, You really know your stuff. Thanks for all the information. Curious what you think would serve best … I work on my own cars and never owned a riding mower but am confident I can handle any particular R&M. I’m looking at spending 2 -2.5k with a bagger included Yard is flat but has moderate root exposure, and tons of trees and leaves. Grass is fairly slow growing due to extra shade etc… So I mow about 0.7 acres every 12-15 days in Charlotte NC.
Paul
Hi Josh, In that price range the Craftsman Pro 46 inch is a good choice. A 46 inch two blade deck throws leaves into a bagger just a little better than a 42 inch mower. Check it out here: Craftsman ProSeries 27042 46″ 725cc Kohler Riding Mower with TurnTight Extreme.
Here is the correct Bagger: Craftsman 19A30003799 42–46 In. Cut 2-Bin Bagger
Josh
Thanks Paul! I’ll look into it!
Myron
Hi Paul,
JD E130 transmission is Tuff Torq TLT200a. According to Tuff Torq this is for max. 18 inch diameter tires.
I got a reply from Tuff Torq saying that this is what John Deere decided to put into this tractor. The E130 has 20 inch diameter tires. You need the K46 hydro for 20 in diameter tires so I am looking
at the Cub Cadet XT2 LX42 with the K46 hydro. What are your thoughts on the E130 vs XT2?
Which will be a better choice for 1/2 acre flat mowing. This is for my daughter to use so ease of use and reliability is what I need.
Thank you for your great web site!
Myron
Paul
Hi Myron, Tuff Torq needs to rewrite their specs. No one has used an 18-inch tire for many years. That said, If you have a good local Cub Cadet dealer I would pick the XT2. It cuts well and the Kohler engine has an excellent reputation. It will last her a long time.
Paul
Hi Joseph, If you have a Country Clipper dealer in your area (use the dealer locator on their site) The Country Clipper XLT is a good choice in the $5000 range. Click here: Country Clipper XLT. They also have more expensive – heavier duty ZTRs in your price range.
The Toro TimeCutter HD with MyRIDE 60 in. is also a great choice for large areas. It’s has a unique suspension that makes it the best riding mower on the market. Yes. It cuts great! Link Here: Toro TimeCutter HD with MyRIDE 60 in.
Rew
I have about 2 acres to cut weekly and we do have a couple of spots that are steep. I’d say 30 degree slope for about for about 150 feet and takes about 4 passes with a 42″ mower.
I had a craftsman 42″ with a 21hp single cylinder Briggs and it was very disappointing Went through 2 engines in 5 years and it just failed again.
I thought the dual cylinder may be a better engine.
We are looking at Cub Cadet Xt2 42″ with the Vtwin Kohler or the Deere E130.
If you had to pick. Which one or should I go heavier duty.
Paul
Hi REW, Mowing that slope which is twice as steep as the manufactures recommend requires an engine with an oil pump, oil ports, and heavy-duty oil filter. The engine you had most likely had an oil pump, oil filter but had internal splash lube instead of the ports. While it worked just fine for owners that kept their mowers on slopes less than 15 degrees – it just was not able to get all the interior lubed on that overly steep hill.
I have a few customers south of where I live who mow that steep of hills. A normal Intec or Intec plus Briggs will only last them 40-50 hours. Once they purchased the better Kohler or Briggs ELS/Pro engines they have not had an issue since.
The Cub Cadet XT1, Cub Cadet XT2 with the Kohler 7000 and Craftsman Pro with the Kohler 7000 have that type of engine. The John Deere E130 does not.
In John Deere you have to go up to an E160/E170/E180 to get the ELS engine.
So, you want a Kohler 7000, Kohler 7000 Pro, Briggs ELS, or Briggs Pro. I don’t know if the Kawasaki is able to handle those steep slopes.
Paul
Hi Alan, Thanks, I missed that. The E160 now has smaller, 20 inch rear tires and the TLT200B. The D160 was different. The E170 replaced the D160
The 2018 E100 series is using the same transmissions as the D100 series did. If you don’t mind I’ll list them all here. Just a reminder – the E100 series is designed to mow your lawn well, pull a yard cart for yard cleanup, mount a 2-bin bagger. So the transmissions/lawn tractors are designed for that work.
Tuff Torq TLT200A – E110, E120, E130
Tuff Torq TLT200B – E140, E150, E160
Tuff Torq K46AC – E170, E180 (Because of the K46 transmission in the E180 I only recommend it for flat land. The trans is too light and the rear wheels too large to use that mower on hills.)
The D100 series had the following
Tuff Torq TLT200A – D110, D125, D130
Tuff Torq T40J – D140, D155
Tuff Torq K46AC – D160, D170
Rew
Thanks Paul…. that is a great help.
Alan
What is the “E” equivalent then of the D-155? I ask because the D-155 is still available at some stores and online at Home Depot. It has the longer lasting engine. Hoping for a larger discount to pop up still on the D-155. I am not sold on the quick oil change so that would leave me with the E-140. I have a 1 acre lawn, mostly flat. A few mounds to mow over without scalping. Will pull a trailer for light duty yard work.
Paul
Hi Alan, The equivalent would be the E-170 for the ELS engine but the E160 for the rear tires/transmission.
Dave
I am probably going to buy a JD E110 mower, soon. This model does not have a 30 sec. oil change. I have had an JD L111 since 2005. Will the oil change be the same for the E110? I DO NOT object to changing my own oil.
Thanks for your help,
Dave
Paul
Hi Dave, Yes, the oil change will be similar to your L111. In fact, it may be a little easier with the spin-on oil filter and no-tools drain.
Danielle
Hi Paul! Thanks for this great review! I am looking at the E160 … I would consider the Cub XT1 LT50″ (a little less $$ than the Deere), but not sure about Cub vs Deere. I was told by a Deere dealer that you can expect the E-series mowers to last about 7 years – kind of surprised about that…what are your thoughts on Cub vs Deere (models noted above)? Pretty similar? Also, I have a Cyclone Rake (www.cyclonerake) that I have used on a previous Craftsman – only use it 2-4 times in the fall to pick up leaves, so I’m thinking it should be fine with the E160 or the XT1 LT50″ – what are your thoughts? Thanks for your time!
Paul
Hi Danielle, If you would like a Deere I suggest that you move up to the E170. It has a stronger trans for pulling the cyclone rake. The Cub Cadet XT1 LT50’s transmission is the same size as the E170 so you will never have an issue with pulling the cyclone.
Life: Most owners use their lawn tractors 40-50 hours a year. So, the E series Deere, Cub Cadet XT1 series, Craftsman, Husqvarna, etc. lawn tractors that cost $1500-2500 all are designed to last about 10 years. If your lawn is larger and you use it more it won’t last quite as long – of course, if you use it less it will last longer. Taking care of it – normal maintenance – normal cleaning – will make it last longer.
I really don’t have a preference between the Deere and the Cub Cadet. If you are going to buy from a dealer I’d buy from the dealer you like the best.
Joseph
Paul, I know this probably isn’t the write article to leave this question. We recently bought a 6 acre property that is mainly flat and open. My question is, would a x700 series tractor or a commercial ZTR make more sense? I know the ZTR would mow much faster but like the thought of being able to use the tractor for more things. I definitely want a 60” deck. I know this question is more outside your scope but don’t really have anyone to ask. Thanks!
Paul
Hi Joeseph. A commercial ZTR is a lawn mower – nothing else. If you want to leave parts of your 6 acres for wildlife and/or not mow it every week it’s the wrong mower for you. They are not designed for tall grass or rough fields. A X700 is a lot more versatile. You may even want to consider spending a few thousand more and look at the 1 Family Sub-Compact Utility John Deere Tractors or equivalent Mahindra, Massey, or other brand. You can mow with them and add a bucket loader. The Sub-compacts have a rear PTO and hitch for mowing tall grass and grading/working in the dirt. If you have livestock or want to hobby farm they are the best choice.
Joseph
Thanks for the info Paul. Do you know the time difference in cutting between a commercial zero turn and X700/subcompact tractor with a 60” deck? Again, the area is almost completely open with few trees/obstacles.
The main use would be for cutting grass. I’m just not sure when spending around $10k if it doesn’t make more sense to have a machine that can do everything. I have a good dealer near by that sells John Deere, Kioti, and Exmark equipment.
Paul
Hi Joseph, How fast you can mow with a ZTR is very dependent on what you are mowing. If it’s all an actual lawn with not too many rough spots a $5000 or more Commercial ZTR can mow around 8 mph. The X700’s deck does well around 5-6 mph on the same lawn. So the X700 will mow around 2.5-3 and the ZTR about 4 acres an hour.
Joseph
Thanks Paul. Would a subcompact now at the same speed as the X700?
Paul
Hi Joseph, yes.
Joseph
Do you have a couple zero turns that you would recommend for my property? Maybe one in the 5,000 range and one around 10,000? Are the more expensive ones worth the additional cost? Thanks for all your help!
Fast Eddie
I bought the JD 2520 11 years ago. Ive been mowing 5 acres every week with it ever since. I also have a front end loader and blade to clear snow. It’s been terrific. Other than bumping into some stuff and having to replace the tail lights it’s had nothing but routine maintenance (I tried to trim too close to our darn swingset.) The 60″ deck and quick mowing speed make a big difference. We have a dozen pine trees and fences to trim around but the added utility of the compact utility tractor has been a big benefit to me.
Joseph
Thanks Fast Eddie! For some reason I just now saw your message. How long does it typically take you to cut? The main thing I will be using it for is mowing, but I have a hard time spending that much to just mow when I could get a compact tractor that can do whatever I want it to do in the future.
Paul
Hi Pacome, I suggest buying the stronger transmission. If you don’t need the fancy seat and brush guard the XT1 GT50 gives you the K58 trans and a Kohler engine for $200 more than the XT2 SLX50.
Check it out here: Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro Series GT 50 in. 25-HP V-Twin Kohler Gas Hydrostatic Garden Tractor with Cub Connect Bluetooth Model# GT50
Pacome
Thank you very much Paul. Unfortunately, I live in Canada, where the GT50 is not available on the XT1 :s So we have the XT2 SLX50 with the fancy EFI engine, big wheels, seat etc but the it’s a 50in stamped deck and a k46 for 3299$(CAD). On the other hand I have the XT2GX 54 FAB with the same features + the 54in fabricated deck, the 24hp Kawa and the K58 tranny for 3899$(CAD).
We don’t have as many options as you do in the US. I’m going to contact my dealer to check if he can get the XT1 GT50 otherwise I think I’m going to spend the extra buck and get the whole package XT2GX54FAB. Unless you would recommend something else, even from another brand?
I’m just sad they don’t make it with the EFI, but it would probably jack up the price a little more.
Buying a mower is a pain, you have so many options and don’t really know the difference between a 1k$ tractor and a 4k$ tractor… Thank you for your website that gives a lot of info.
Paul
Hi Pacome, Yes, EFI is not coming fast enough. That said, I’d still suggest the heavier transmission as your main deciding factor.
Pacome
Hi Paul,
I’m leaning toward a cub cadet but can’t get my mind around that K46 transmission… would it be enough for a 50 inch deck and 22 inch wheels on hill (XT2 SLX50) or should I spend the extra buck and get the K58 on the XT2 GX54?
Thank you
Bob
Paul, what transmission is used in the Deere E140 and E160? Thank you, Bob
Paul
Hi Bob, The 2018 E100 series is using the same transmissions as the D100 series did. If you don’t mind I’ll list them all here. Just a reminder – the E100 series is designed to mow your lawn well, pull a yard cart for yard cleanup, mount a 2-bin bagger. So the transmissions/lawn tractors are designed for that work.
Tuff Torq TLT200A – E110, E120, E130
Tuff Torq TLT200B – E140, E150, E160
Tuff Torq K46AC – E170, E180
Because of the K46 transmission in the E180 I only recommend it for flat land. The trans is too light and the rear wheels too large to use that mower on hills.
Alan
Trying to understand the model differences and looking at a few D-series still at stores on sale. Is the D-160 the Tuff Torq K46AC and the E160 TLT200B? Did they change the transmission on the E series?
Bob
Hi Paul, you have lots of great info to provide! Wondering on mower deck cleaning, have not seen much discussion on this:
1. How do you believe in cleaning underside of decks? Scraping and scrubbing, or pressure washing (quick and easy but risk of getting water into spindle bearings)? And does greasing one or two pumps going to purge water out after???
2. Do you suggest using the Deere garden hose quick coupler and water after every use?
3. Have you ever treated the under side of the deck when new before first usage, with oil or powdered graphite spray?
Bob also of WI
Paul
Hi Bob, Almost all of today’s mowers use sealed bearings on the deck so I don’t recommend using a gas pressure washer to clean the decks. There is too much pressure with the gas powered washers. And you can’t regrease the bearing because the grease zerk is gone.
So, the next best thing is to use the deck wash every time you mow. Especially if the grass is damp, wet or good high-moisture bluegrass. Especially if I am mulching good/high moisture grass because that wet grass will build up under the deck quickly and most riding mower decks won’t mulch as well with all that grass packed underneath. Running the water through the hose fitting does not apply enough pressure to ruin the bearings. Just remember the washing the deck with a hose leaves a mess on the ground and will stain your concrete driveway. I’m lucky in that I have water to a landscape bed about 250 feet from the house and away from foot traffic. I can wash the deck out behind it.
If I’m using the side discharge I don’t bother to clean under the deck most of the year. I’ll scrape it clean when I sharpen the blades. I’ll only use the deck wash if the grass it really full of moisture in the spring or if I have to mow in the rain.
To scrape the underside of the deck I have an old plastic kitchen spatula and a stiff bristle long handle “milker” brush from the local feed store. I don’t use metal scrapers.
No, I don’t suggest treating the deck because the oil or silicone will wear off in the first 15 minutes. I do suggest painting the underside with Rustoleum if there are a lot of bare metal spots.
Richard Mazzella
Hi Paul,
Are u still reviewing Craftsman tractors? Maybe not since Sears is in financial trouble. What do u think about Craftsman 20408?
I have 1.5 acres of flat but bumpy terrain. I’ll be 78 this year and I like the hydro-fender, but u don’t recommend that trans above 48” cut.
The 20408 is 54”, but it has pedal hydro, which I don’t know if I’d like.
What do u think/recommend?
Thanks
Paul
Hi Richard, No I have not quit discussing Craftsman. Craftsman is doing fine. Actually, I’m still very busy with snow blower over at movingsnow.com and haven’t had the chance to show off all the new mowers.
Yes, fender control is gone. There are only one or two Husqvarna dealer tractors that still have the fender control.
The Craftsman 20408 54″ 24 HP V-Twin Briggs & Stratton Hydrostatic Garden Tractor does have cruise control and operates like your car. Instead of taking your hand off the fender control for going at a constant speed you just lift a small lever on the dash. Moving the pedal or stepping on the parking brake disengages the cruise. That is a good price for the 20408.
Robert
Sorry Paul, gotta call you on the K46 being a medium duty hydro-static transmission. Got one on my Husqvarna LGT 2654, and it is indeed a light duty hydro-static transmission.
Paul
Hi Robert, I knew I’d get a comment or two on that statement. 10 years ago I would agree with you but today the K46 is the “standard” transmission in lawn tractors. 10 years ago the K66 was the heavy duty trans but today it’s nowhere to be found in lawn tractors and you have to get into $5000 plus garden tractors before it is now available. The heavy duty trans today is the K57.
Light duty is now the Tuff Torq TLT200 and is found in most LT’s under $2000.
Same goes for Hydro-Gear the T1, T2, and T3 are all you find in lawn tractors. The G730 is only found in garden tractors.
Aidan Tonchev
Hi Paul, so then is there a difference in the transmissions between the E130 and the E140? The John Deere website put an A and B after the TLT200 so I was wondering if there was actually a difference?
Paul
Hi Aiden, The letter after the transmission model number usually means a minor change like a linkage connector but the transmissions are essentially identical. The only difference I can see with the E130 and E140 is the E130 has the quick oil change and the E140 has a 12 gauge deck (E130 has a 13 ga deck.)
But, The real difference is Lowes has the E130 exclusively and Home Depot has the E120 exclusively. (The big box stores always have some kind of “turf war” going on and have to have their own “exclusive” models. That way you can’t price match from one store to the other.