Updated March 2018. I read many reviews complaining about lawn tractors not being able to mow on a hill. “They don’t have enough traction.” “I have to use tire chains.” “I have some fairly steep hills on the property and the tractor stands so tall that it is not safe at all on hills over 15 degrees. So I couldn’t mow half of my lawn.”
It’s time to stop complaining and get real. You will not be able to mow all of your lawn with a lawn tractor or zero-turn if there are slopes.
Thank You Toro For This Photo
The truth: Residential Lawn Tractors and Zero-Turns are not designed to mow on slopes steeper than 15 degrees. They all tell you that in the manual. There are mowers designed to mow hills but the cheapest one on the market is over $10,000. The good ones are in the $20,000 to $50,000 range.
Making myself more comfortable on a slope is not my goal. Not rolling the tractor or zero-turn is my goal. Rolling the tractor is not worth cutting an extra bit of grass. It is just grass.
If it is too steep to mow, turn it into a landscape bed or wildlife area.
Be Safe:
- On steep slopes, GO SLOW.
- Sidehill mowing, watch the front uphill tire to verify it’s making a solid depression in the grass. If it isn’t, SLOWLY turn downhill.
- Always have an escape route when mowing or traveling over rough ground so if the machine kicks out of gear or the brakes fail or both you can steer to safety.
- Keep the brakes properly adjusted and maintained.
- Be very, very aware that going up a steep slope how quickly and easily a tractor will flip back on you. If the front end does come up, the rear wheels provide the motive force to flip it back.
- Generally speaking, brakes are for stopping, NOT slowing down in tractor usage, that’s what the trans is for. If you step on the left pedal you set the parking brake and the rear wheels will lock. In most cases this will not hold you on the hill, instead, you will slide down the hill.
- The “GO SLOW” mentioned above means regulate your speed with the transmission. Choose a lower or lowest gear, with a hydro, do the same, keep the RPM’s (engine speed) up.
Can a tractor mow this hill? NO!
Zero-Turns are not weighted to mow up a hill. Especially older zero-turn mowers. They will tip over backward.
- If you cannot back up the slope or if you feel uneasy on it, do not mow it with a ride-on machine.
- Mow up and down slopes with a lawn tractor, not across.
- Watch for holes, ruts, bumps, rocks or other hidden objects. Uneven terrain could overturn the machine.
- Choose a low ground speed so you will not have to stop or shift while on a slope.
- Do not mow on wet or damp grass. Tires may lose traction.
- Do not mow on drought-dry grass. Tires will lose traction.
- Always keep the machine in gear when going down slopes. Do not shift to neutral and coast downhill.
- Avoid starting, stopping or turning on a slope.
- Keep all movement on slopes slow and gradual.
- Use extra care while operating the machine with grass catchers or other attachments; they affect the stability of the machine. Do not use them on steep slopes.
- Do not try to stabilize the machine by putting your foot on the ground.
- Do not mow near drop-offs, ditches or embankments.
46 inch 2 blade decks on lawn tractors do not have the clearance between the rear of the deck and the rear tires to install tire chains.
If you have a Walk Out Basement the angle is too steep to mow side to side or up the hill. Mow down the hill, drive around to the top of the slope and mow down. Yes, you may have to drive around the house a dozen times to do this, but it is the only way. Never attempt to mow or drive up the hill
Don’t even consider using a rear mounted bagger on hills. On both tractors and zero-turns that makes them too heavy in the rear.
Don’t even consider a leaf/lawn vac on slopes. The transmissions in lawn tractors are not heavy enough and you will destroy the trans. On garden tractor, there may be too much weight on the rear hitch. Blow the leaves to the bottom of the hill with a handheld blower or backpack blower, then pick them up with your vac.
Tip-over from water logged turf
Do not mow near drop-offs, ditches or embankments. Don’t mow near a pond. The first 6 to 10 feet of turf by the water’s edge is water-logged and your mower will sink in and tip over.
Follow the rules in your operator’s manual. But remember, an unseen hole on the down-slope or a bump or stick of wood on the uphill side can increase your slope quickly and cause an accident.
Seatbelts and ROPs won’t save you if there is water
What is available today For the Homeowner:
Notice the dual wheels on the ATV?
The ATV is out of the water logged turf
There are very few residential mowers specifically designed to mow slopes. Here are a few that work:
Acrease Wing and Rough-Cut Mowers: Acrease Mowers are able to mow slopes. They use full pressure engines on the commercial models that won’t blow up on slopes greater than 15 degrees. Be aware these mowers are heavy and you will need a heavy tractor to pull them. I actually used 2 in tandem to mow a 10-foot road ditch 
(Swisher T-60 Trailmower 14.5hp. is only designed for 15-degree slopes. The engines are splash lubricated and will blow up on slopes greater than 15 degrees.)
Craftsman 4WD walk-behind.
Husqvarna:
Walk-Behind Husqvarna HU800AWD All Wheel Drive
There are a few tractors with a rear differential lock from Craftsman Pro, Cub Cadet and Husqvarna that give you better traction going up and down slopes, but they are still only rated for 15 degrees.
There are other mowers that will handle slopes but all of them are commercially rated. Standon Mowers, 60 inches and larger like the Wright Stander are capable of mowing greater than 15 degrees. Toro Walk-Behind commercial mowers with the T-Bar steering also work well. Of course, there are the dedicated slope mowers like the KutKwick and the new robotic mowers.
Final Thoughts
Many people don’t read the operator’s manual or feel these warning statements are “just guidelines.” Even staying under 15 degrees there are still ways to tip your lawn tractor or zero-turn mower over. Mowing commercially for many years I have had too many close calls and I still use my “Pucker-meter” all the time. The seat of your pants is the best gauge – really. It is a long, slow, careful learning experience. You have to get to know your machine and how to best approach various terrain. Going slow and low is always good.
If is feels wrong, if the hill feels too steep, if the tractor doesn’t feel right, I don’t mow it.
(This Last From Consumer Reports)
What we tested, what we found. We compared several zero-turn-radius riding mowers marketed to consumers with a lawn tractor on slopes ranging from roughly 5 to 20 degrees. We used a typical 4.5 mph mowing speed over both dry and wet grass, going up and down as you should with most ride-on machines. So far, so good.
The trouble began when we made a hard turn down 10- to 15-degree slopes. The zero-turn riders lost most of their steering control, skidding straight into our simulated hazards. All could stop in time when the brake was applied, though stopping entails manipulating two levers that also do the steering. That’s less intuitive than a tractor’s foot brake. And while the zero-turn models steered controllably at slower speeds, time savings is a major selling point for zero-turn machines.
The rollover risk
Rollovers are another concern with all ride-on mowers, contributing to the more than 15,000 injuries and 61 deaths associated with those machines for 2007, according to estimates based on CPSC data. Commercial tractors and riding mowers often include a roll bar, called a rollover protective structure (ROPS), and a safety belt. Both are supposed to work together to protect and confine the operator if there’s a rollover. But even that approach leaves lots of room for error.
- Choose a front-steering tractor over a zero-turn-radius rider if you’re mowing slopes 10 to 15 degrees or greater. (A 10-degree slope rises roughly 20 inches over every 10 feet.) If you already own a zero-turn-radius riding mower, be sure to mow slowly on hills. And mow only on dry grass to maximize traction.
- Give yourself time to learn the controls on any ride-on mower, especially a zero-turn mower’s levers for steering and speed.
- Mow straight up and down slopes with a tractor or rider unless the manual says otherwise. And mow side-to-side with walk-behind mowers, start at the bottom and work up-hill. Always turn uphill.
Grax McCoar
I wish I’d had your discussion here when my ex-husband was certain he could mow our 5+acres using a “lawn tractor” with the cutter mounted underneath. It was designed for flat lawn – wheels too small, not enough clearance underneath, cutter ‘designed to’ pick up sticks & rocks and wedge them between the blades and housing. Also baler twine, concealed ancient feed sacks, and electric fence wire mostly buried in the weeds. What was being mowed was haygrass pasture, lightweight but tough brambles and brushy groundcover, mostly on a 15degree or steeper slope. The only reason it didn’t tip over on him was that it was short, wide and kind of flat – it got itself stuck with one side up in the air instead, and had to be levered upright again. He didn’t think I could understand (what was wrong with) his technique and didn’t listen to me. If I could have shown him what you have to say here he’d have given up on the mower and I could have had the scaled down sicklebar walk behind that I’d asked for and taken over the mowing.
Charles Beaverson
Hi Paul….just double-checking. I think you said all Kohler engines have oil pressurized engines. I have a John Deere L-110 and used it on many inclines. It has held up wonderfully and never had engine problems due to not getting oil. I’m assuming that’s because I have a pressurized engine?
Paul
Hi Charles, Your L-110 uses a Briggs & Stratton pressurized engine block.
Ronald Park
Paul,
Nice article. I have a small lake/large pond on my property with an earthen dam about 150 ft long. I run a mower across the top of the dam, but it does slop severly (nearly45) down into the water. We have various weeds and even small saplings that grow there as well. The pic on your article shows a pull-behind mower for such a slope. DR Power only supports a 22-degree slope. Where do I find that mower?
Paul
Hi Ronald, that mower is made by Acrease.I recommend the rough-cut model. It costs more than a DR or Swisher but it will last you years and years.
Tell Matt Kunz I sent you, what you are going to use the mower for and he’ll help you get an engine that will last on your slopes. Here is a link to the rough-cut page: Acrease Rough Cut Mowers
MiserableOldFart
I routinely mow steep slopes with my Kubota Gr2120 lawn tractor. Its all wheel drive handles up and down slopes exceptionally well. I can rant and rave about the problems I’ve had with this machine, but on hills, as long as you have a flat spot to make your turn, it’s phenomenal.
Mark
Thanks, I was contemplating taking my riding mower down an identical slope that you have in the picture. So glad I saw your article I think you may have saved a trip to the emergency department.
Chris
Hi Paul,
This page has been a great wealth of knowledge especially for my situation. I have 7 acres with several large slopes (easily 20 degrees). Each an acre + in area. Currently using a Kioti cs2210, which I mow up and down. What are your thoughts on the Altoz TRX. Are the tracks style zero turns any benefit to working on slopes. I have also been considering the cub cadet Pro z 972 SD.
Paul
Hi Chris, the best sidehill mower on the market is the Kut Kwick Slope Master. I really like the tilting seat on this mower and I’ve spent many hours on one.
The second best is the Ventrac 4500 TRACTOR with duals. The 4500 has the ability to do more than just mow your hill.
The third best is the Wright Stander ZK. By standing you can shift your weight to help with traction and if you get in trouble all you have to do is step off the mower and get away from it.
Also in third place is the PRO Z 972 SD. I really like the steerable front wheels and the extra weight in the front rims so it will hold slopes very well. It’s a very good choice.
The Altoz TRX is really designed for soft and rough ground. Altoz shows it mowing hills but they really haven’t given any data of what slopes it will handle. If you get it I would suggest the all-terrain tracks over the turf tracks. The Altoz TSX on the other hand will be a good choice for hills. A standon is a lot less tiring than a sit-down mower on slopes.
Natalia Munoz-schneier
Hi Paul,
Great blog post. Very informative. I’ve been looking into getting a riding lawn mower to lower my overhead of maintaining our property. Everything out there says similar to you that 15 degrees is the max for mowing, but what about just riding? My issue is that our property is very sloped and I need to get from the lower level (where I’d like to store the mower) to the upper level (where there is actually flatter land to mow) and to do so, I’d have to go up our driveway, which is steeper than 15 degrees for sure. Is it safe, if not mowing, to ride up on an asphalt paved driveway? Say on either a Craftsman 110/140 or T100/110? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give here.
Paul
Hi Natilia, Yes, going up your driveway with a lawn tractor will be fine. Just be very careful turning on the steep part of your drive.
You may want to consider spending a few hundred more and getting a mower with a heavier-duty transmission. The tranny in the T100 series is very light duty.
Take a look at this Cub Cadet: XT1 LT42 with IntelliPower™
Titan415
Hi, Paul. I have a Ryobi Zero-turn and wish I’d read this article before I bought it. My land has some steep inclines, and I try to mow down the steepest ones.
One thing I’ve done that I haven’t seen anyone suggest is add 55 pounds of weight to the front, which is helping to keep the front wheels down. Why, I wonder, isn’t anyone recommending this?
Paul
Hi Titan415, What I’m about to write is going to seem like I’m yelling at you. PLEASE don’t take it personally…
Adding weight to the front end of a ZTR is very dangerous! If the ZTR will not mow the hill – you have the WRONG mower for the job.
1. Zero-turn mowers are designed to mow slopes less than 15 degrees. Lightweight, residential zero-turns like the 42 inch Ryobi, Troy-Bilt, Craftsman should NEVER be driven on slopes greater than 15 degrees. Smaller 30-34 inch ZTRs should never be driven on slopes greater than 10 degrees. Why? Because they are too light and trying to mow steeper slopes will cause them to slide down the slope or become unstable. You can easily tip one over when it’s sliding and it hits a bump or pothole in the lawn.
2. ZTR’s are balanced so you have traction in the rear because that’s where all the turning occurs. Adding weight to the front end causes you to lose traction in the rear. While you may not notice it going up a hill – going down the hill is when all the problems occur. With less traction in the rear, the rear wheels can’t get enough traction to turn the mower at the bottom of the hill. If there is a pond, fence tree, etc. in your path you may not be able to control the ZTR to make the turn. If you try to turn the mower before the bottom of the hill the rear will fishtail and you’ll end up sliding sideways down the hill uncontrollably. This is aggravated by wet grass or drought-dry grass.
There are very few things scarier than riding an out-of-control ZTR down a hill headed towards a fence, drop-off, or pond!
3. With the added front weight the ZTR won’t turn in soft soils. Light, sandy soil especially. The front casters won’t swivel and the rear just digs into the turf.
The ONLY time weight is added to the front of a ZTR is when you are offsetting the weight of a rear bagger.
I’ve been using ZTR’s since they came out in 1993. I’ve put thousands of hours on them and have owned everything from a 30-inch DIXON to a $50,000 Kut-Kwick. I’ve had all the problems with various ZTRs over the years I just talked about and worked with engineers to get these mowers as safe as possible. But, they all still have limitations and won’t work for everyone – especially residential models on hills.
Titan415
Thank you for the reply, Paul. I’ve been very concerned about all the things you mention, and mowing this yard does make me uncomfortable. Unfortunately, I’m not sure what to do about it. I’ve given some thought to hiring a welder to add a roll bar, just so i have some protection. The weights do seem to help keep the front wheels on the ground, though, so I’m not sure what to do.
Dave
I’m looking for a self-propelled push mower to help with a portion of my lawn which is probably 25 degrees or so, with a budget of about $1200. I know the recommendation is to mow side-to-side, but what I find is that the mower slips/veers way too easily downhill, and if I push it upward diagonally to maintain the proper height while moving across the hill, then it’s skidding quite badly and ripping up the grass constantly.
Are there any mowers that have wheel brakes which could be used to make going straight down the hill safer and easier?
Paul
Hi Dave, NEVER go down a steep hill with a walk-behind. You could slip and you’ll end up under the mower. About the only walk-behinds that would “brake” going downhill are the commercial hydro mowers. They start about $3000. BRADLEY 36″ HYDRO WALK-BEHIND MOWER T BAR BRIGGS
Dave
I measured the slope and it’s 22 degrees. Going side-to-side, I’m finding it very problematic to control the sideways slide downhill which basically just rips up the grass. Would an all-wheel drive mower help a lot with that? Or maybe just the grass variety (mostly cereal rye) is making it worse? Would appreciate any thoughts on making the side-traversal a bit better…
Paul
Hi Dave, I’m going to guess you want a walk-behind. That slope is too steep for a riding mower or ZTR.
Yes, an all-wheel-drive will make a big difference. The best one right now is the Toro Recycler 22 in. All-Wheel Drive Personal Pace.
If you have a larger area to mow another option is a wide-area mower. They are heavier and will hang on the slope better. Be sure to buy one with non-castering front wheels. Here is an example: Toro TimeMaster 30 in.
John Wagner
Hi Paul,
I was just wondering about modifications that could be done to a riding lawn mower to help with the slope issue. What about wider tires or even a dually setup? I understand the extra traction might damage the drivetrain but would it help with tipping? What about putting a belly mower directly onto an ATV? My thing is that I can fabricate anything…and I mean anything. Been doing this kind of thing for 40 years. What do you think would be the ultimate setup for hills? Obviously there is some room for improvement. Biggest bang for the buck?
John
Paul
Hi John, The ultimate and safest setup for hills is the new ExMark Staris stand-on, Wright Stander ZK Dually, Ventrac 4000 series, Cub Cadet Pro Z steering wheel, and Kut Kwick Super Slope Master. There are also a few ride-on field mowers with a low profile like the Orec Brush Rover.
ATVs are even worse. Most are narrow and have huge, round tires with little side-wall stiffness. An option though for ATVs is an Arcease Pull-Behind. You can ride on the level and let the mower hang down the slope. I’ve used them for years for steep ditches nothing else could mow.
Any other rider is just an accident/death waiting to happen.
Patrick
Hi Paul
What is your opinion on the Cub Cadet ZForce S60 Steering Wheel Zero Turn. It used a 4 wheel steering mechanism similar to the Cub Cadet Pro Z models you recommended. I think that the ZForce S models are residential versions of the more expensive Pro line. I’ve seen several videos of these machines doing well on slopes. I plan on purchasing one after winter.
Paul
Hi Patrick, The Z-Force is Cub Cadet’s high-end residential mower. It cuts well, has a “better” grade engine and a reinforced fabricated deck. Yes, it will handle slopes better than a comparable lap bar ZTR.
Louis
Everyone should check out Husqvarna Automowers to handle slopes. We’ve installed these in areas that would never be mowed on a riding mower.
Paul
Hi Louis, now that Husqvarna is selling robotic mowers that will mow high enough for our cool-season grasses they are becoming an alternative for many people. Check out their new slope mower, the Automower® 435X AWD robotic mower
David Decarme
I was speaking with a Husqvarna dealer in my area (western North Carolina) this spring about robotic mowers and he said the AWD version was not yet available in the US and was probably a year or two from being available. Not sure where your guest is writing from but would be interested to know if my info is correct, there is regional availability or perhaps my info is just wrong. Thx
Paul
Hi David, I believe the commenter was talking about the AUTOMOWER® 430XH and AUTOMOWER® 450XH mowers. They are capable of handing slopes greater than 15 degrees.
The AWD was just introduced and I’ll find out more about the availability in Oct.
Craig
In the case of a splash lubricating engine mowing a steep grade is not recommended as the oil pools to one side of the crank case and won’t splash sufficiently. Folks throw many a connecting rod due to this.
Paul
Hi Craig, Yes, Briggs Powerbuilt engines are splash. Briggs Intek engines have an oil filter and an oil pump that pumps the oil through the filter – but it’s still a splash lube engine. Briggs states these engine will handle slopes and they will, for short time. The Intek Plus and better engines (oil filter has the yellow label) all have full lubrication and will handle extended use on slopes.
Other lawn tractor/Zero-turn engines that have full lubrication are: MTD Powermore, Briggs ELS, Pro, Platinum, etc., Kawasaki FR, All Kohler, All Toro, All Honda and all Yamaha.
Michael Gauthier
So, I have had 4 craftsman lawn tractors over the last 21 years. All of them last about 5 years before the Rod lets loose in the engine. I am curious if the ditch i mow is causing the oil to no lubricate when mowing. It is steep. I have talk to others who has had tractors for 10 years. Is it Craftsman? or the ditch? I nee to buy me a new tractor in the next month, so i was thinking about a John Deere
Paul
Hi Michael, The problem is your ditch and probably the engines you are buying. You need a lawn tractor with a full-pressurized engine. What does that mean?
– Your normal lawn tractor engines use a splash lubrication for the oil system. They come in single and twin cylinder models and have no oil filter. They are usually in the cheapest lawn tractors in a brands line. I recommend these engines for small, flat lawns only.
– The next step up engines add a small oil pump that pumps the oil through a filter – but the lubrication is still a splash system. Briggs Intek, John Deere E100/E110 or Craftsman Gold with the yellow oil filter are examples of this type of engine. I recommend these engines for smaller gently sloped lawns.
– A full pressure engine uses an oil pump and oil ports inside the engine to pump oil to the critical engine components. The pump also pumps oil through the filter before it goes through the oil ports. Briggs Intek Plus, Briggs ELS, John Deere ELS, Craftsman Platinum, ALL Kohler, ALL Toro, and ALL Kawasaki engines have this type of oil system. I also believe MTD/Cub Cadet/Troy-Bilt/Powermore engines also have the full-pressure lube. These engines will handle sustained running on slopes – like your ditch.
If you are considering a John Deere you need one of the 100 series models with the John Deere Extended Life Engine or any of the models from the X240 or X300 series. Craftsman and others I suggest a model with a Kohler or Kawasaki engine.
George
Hi Paul. Here is another question on mowing on slopes. I am mowing a steep hill (probably 30 degrees) in my 0.25 acre backyard with a Husqvarna YT48XLS going up and down. Although the YT48XLS will climb the hill easily I am wondering if going up and down the slope can hurt the engine. Is it possible that the oil will not be able to reach all engine parts when the mower goes up or down? Also, there seems to be some black deposit that smells like gas under the air filter. I don’t know if that’s because of the slope or the engine itself. Though the engine only has 30 hours. Thanks
Paul
Hi George, The Kohler engine uses an oil pump and ports. That means the oil is pumped directly to the critical parts all the time. So hills will not wreck that engine.
Today’s engine have a closed loop crankcase ventilation system so you will see some dark deposits under the air cleaner. That’s normal.
Robert White
Hi Paul
I have a corner 1 acre lot with the front and side having a10-15 degree slope. I have 3 large oak, maple trees and flower beds. I have been using 2003 white outdoor lt-1650 x 42deck lawn tractor with bagger. I am looking to replace the machine and I am considering cub cadet lx 46 or Husqvarna YT46LS. I would appreciate all recommendations what is the best lawn tractor for my needs . I am 70 would like to make the right choice best buy.
Thank you! BOB
Paul
Hi Bob, Either lawn tractor is a good choice. The same turning radius, the same reliability, etc. You can get a two or three bin bagger for the Husqvarna but only a 2 bin for Cub Cadet.
Phil
Hello, I might be in the market for a new mower (not zero turn) and my yard is flat. But I have a 270 foot very steep concrete driveway I have to go down to get to my yard and back up when I am finished. Will the stress of my driveway damage the new lawn tractors? I’ve had the same rear end Snapper for 37 year (been at this house for 10 years) and the Snapper can’t make it back up the hill anymore. I am looking to spend $1500, could go as high as $2000 but don’t really want to. What lawn mower in the $1500 to $2000 range is the best?
Thanks
Paul
HI Phil, A good place to start is with this articles: The Best Lawn, Yard & Garden Tractor Buying Guide 2017 – How To Pick The Best For You!
Todd
I have been skim reading your articles and they have been very helpful, but I am still very confused, I have pushed a 21″ Toro for 30+ years and am getting to the point that physically I need a rider, I have 18,700 sq ft of grass with about 10 trees and some curbing landscaping, and I have all varieties of terrain most is 10 to 15 deg slope but a small amount 25% is pretty steep. I would like to get a 46″ so I am not running over uncut grass, I don’t need any attachments to pull or push. I just want to make a wise decision and am leaning to a Cub Cadet RZT. Whats your thoughts between the RZT-S, RZT-L, RZT-LX, RZT – 46 H?
Todd
Thank you
Todd
Thank you very much for your help, I just found a Husqvarna Front-mounted cutting deck R220T articulation rider zero turn. Would they be any better than a Cub cadet zero turn with a steering wheel?
Paul
Hi Todd, While I like the R220T a lot and actually own two older models it’s not a good choice for hills. It does not have near the traction of the Cub Cadet Steering wheel unit. The Cub Cadet also has a much wider stance so it won’t tip over as quickly.
Todd
Thank you so much
DJ
The manufactures slope recommendations are NO JOKE! I went to the edge of a big drainage and the brakes failed and I had one hell of a ride down into a flowing drainage culvert. Luckily in seconds I raised the deck and shot off PTO in the nick of time. Thank god for 30 years of maintain biking, skiing, 4-wheeling, etc., I couldn’t drive it for an after hour rolling it.
Dave
Hi and thx for the many helpful comments to other questioners. I have a property that has about 3/4 acre of 25 degree slope. I take your safety warnings seriously about using garden tractors on such a steep slope. I noted in one of your previous postings you recommended the Toro T-bar mower. As a commercial product it is quite pricy ($3,000+). After some research I was considering the Troy-Bilt Wide-Cut Self-Propelled Mower — 420cc Troy-Bilt Engine, 33in. Cutting Deck, Model# 12AE76JU011. Its price is much more modest (about $1300). I am sure it is not as rugged as a commercial model would be. Nonetheless would appreciate your opinion of the mower for use on steeper slopes or recommendation for a similar product in the same price range. Thx
Keith
Hey Paul I recently moved into a new house and it is 2.5 acres of hilly uneven ground some 25 degree angles. I’m thinking a four wheeler with pull behind mower wondering what your thoughts are. And if you like the 4 wheeler idea what brand pull behind mower. Budget wise I’m thinking $2000 max on mower. Thankyou
Paul
Hi Keith, if you can afford a four wheeler than you should spend the money and buy a quality pull-behind mower that will mow at 8 mph or faster. The ones I recommend are : AcrEase Tow-Pull Behind Mowers. Tell Matt that I sent you.
Please stay away from the Swisher and anything else sold at Lowes, Home Depot and Sears. You will run the wheels off of them in a year.
Chris M
Hi Paul. I just purchased a house with .68 acres and 2 very steep slopes (about 12 to 16×30) and multiple minor slopes, and trees. I kind of wanted to go alittle bigger than 22inch but I definitely feel limited in productivity. ZT is obviously out and im assuming tractor is too much mower for too much obstacle. Self propelled? RWD or AWD? Whatcha think??
Chris M
Thanks Paul. I was looking at the cub cadet, but was teetering taken it off with reviews of uneven cuts with its floating deck on hills, so the castered wheel argument pretty much seals the there. Good advice. I was looking at 28-30 inch walk behinds, and have been comparing that to the time master and the Craftsman Pro Series 9.5 so far. I’ve heard about power issues with the time master and issues with the engine overworking and bogging down. I’ve heard its a better machine at the 21 or 22 width, which I wouldn’t prefer. Also, what are your opinions on Lowe’s Troy Bilt line? They also have a 28 inch. Would you put the Toro on top of all these?
Paul
Hi Chris, The Troy Bilt WC33 XP™ Wide Cut Self-Propelled Mower is the same mower as the Cub Cadet so it has the same concerns. I’m not sure about the Craftsman Pro.
There really are dozens of mowers in this class and if you want to get out of the retail, big box stores there are some great ones. Please stay away from Beast mowers. If you don’t know the brand ask me.
For example the heavy-duty version of the Toro is the ExMark COMMERCIAL 30. It’s more money than the residential version but well worth it for long life. It’s only at ExMark dealers.
If you live in the southeast, Sarlo has one of the best 32 inch mowers on the market.
Fianlly, There is one mid-priced mower that I like. It’s 10 times better than the mowers we have discussed but priced so that a homeowner can afford it. The company has been around for a long time. 36″ Bradley Walk Behind Commercial Mower. This mower is actually built heavier than most of the residential zero=turn mowers.
Sarlo
Christine
I need to get a new push mower for our yard. We have 1/3 of an acre with the yard at a 20 degree to 30 degree slope. I know I need a self propelled push mower, but which ones are ideal for this situation? Also, I am not very strong so I need the mower to do the work.
Patrick
Paul, thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately the web page states delivery or store pickup not available in my area for the Craftsman Pro 50″. How does the Craftsman Pro Series 50″ 26 HP V-Twin Kohler Garden Tractor with Turn Tight® Extreme compare to the Craftsman Pro Series 46″ 24 HP V-Twin Kohler Riding Mower with Turn Tight® Extreme? What am I losing with the 46″ Yard Tractor compared to the 50″ Garden Tractor?
Paul
Hi Patrick, if you are in no big hurry give Sears two weeks to get the tractor back into your warehouse. It’s been a big seller.
You are losing the garden tractor transmission. The 46 inch 20442 is good for flat and small slopes, but I’m not sure it will give you the 10 years plus I expect out of a Craftsman on steeper slopes.
Patrick
Hi again! Based on your advice, I’m leaning towards the Craftsman Pro Series 50″ 26 HP V-Twin Kohler Garden Tractor with Turn Tight® Extreme when it comes back in stock. With that being said, I’d still be very interested on how the 20443 model compare to my original choice, the 54″ Fast Auto 24 HP Briggs & Stratton V-Twin Turn Tight® Garden Tractor, 20408? A side-by-side comparison on sears.com doesn’t’ show too many differences except the engine size. What advice or information can you provide to compare these two models? Thanks for all of your help!
Paul
Hi Patrick, I went back and read your original comment and I picked the 50 inch because you thought the 54 inch might be too big. I agree, a 54 inch is almost too big for 1/2 acre. I would actually suggest a 46 inch if there was one with a heavy trans.
Now I also picked the Craftsman Pro because they mow the best. They side discharge, mulch and bag better than both the Red Craftsman and the Husqvarna 52 inch.
You also have some steep slopes and I think the front axle of the Craftsman Pro will hold up better than the red Craftsman.
Yes, the transmission in the 20408 is stronger than the 20443 but the trans in the 20443 is plenty strong for your lawn and it will last for you.
The red Craftsman is made by Husqvarna and the Craftsman Pro is made by MTD.
Patrick
Paul, I’ve been patiently waiting for the Craftsman Pro 50 inch that you recommended to show back up online but it still is unavailable. Do you have any insite as to when it will be available again? If it contines to be unavailble, is there an alternate mower that you could recommend?
Patrick
Hi Paul! Thank you for such a great site. I would like your recommendation on a garden tractor or LGT and my budget is around $3K. I live in Woodbridge Virginia and last year we moved into a house with just over a 1/2 acre that is sloped in the back yard…mostly about 15 degrees but maybe a bit more in two areas. The yard is pretty smooth overall. The slope on one side of the back yard extends about 30+ feet but the opposite side is a bit more gradual and extends the entire length from front of house to back property line. The back yard is wider than it is deep as the property is on a “code sac” so its pie shaped and has a retaining wall at the back property line. The front yard is flat with only two trees and the back yard only has two trees and a few obstacles, although we are planning for more trees in the future, front and back. I am looking for a recommendation for a riding mower that will handle the slopes, be able to handle an aerator, dethatcher and small cart. I also like to mulch when I mow but would consider using a bagger if that doesn’t work out well with a riding mower. Per several of your recommendations, I have been considering the Craftsman 54″ Fast Auto 24 HP Briggs & Stratton V-Twin Turn Tight® Garden Tractor but am concerned about the 54″ deck being too big. I have also been looking at the Husqvarna line at Lowes. Because of my sloped back yard, do I need to consider a mower with a locking differential? My wife (and I) are concerned about the safety issues with mowing the slopes so I am primarily looking for a mower that handles well and safely on slopes. Am I understanding correctly that the “red” Craftsman has a stronger transmission than the “black” Craftsman Pro line? Any advice to help me make a decision would be greatly appreciated.
Alan
That measurement is 4″…looks like I may need to adjust the wheels on the deck…this is my first riding mower…Thanks
Paul
Hi Alan, No Problem, it took me years to learn all the little things about lawn mowers.
The 4 wheels on the corners of the deck are anti-scalp wheels. They are not supposed to ride on the ground. They are only there to help the deck go over tree roots, landscape edging and other obstructions in your yard. If you are used to John Deere’s some of their decks ride on those wheels. If you are going to mow high at 3-4 inches you can lower those wheels to the bottom holes, but you don’t have to.
Go out and mow two straight lines going the same direction when you mow. Does it look like one side of the deck is lower than the other and it is cutting uneven? If it is then use the deck leveling procedure in the manual to level the deck from side-to-side.
Feel free to stop back anytime and ask questions. Please use the model number under the seat to let me know what tractor you have,
Justin
Hi I live in Woodstock, Ontario, Canada, we have a 40 acre campground with all sorts of terrain. We have a big Kubota tractor for most of the grounds, however it cannot fit in some areas like the mini golf course and most sites. I am left with too much push mowing. I was looking for a smaller mower with a smaller deck (28″ -36″ maybe) that could go on slopes and fit in tight spaces with zero turn. One of the bigger areas i have to push mow is about a 45 degree hill.
Paul
Hi Justin, Smaller mowers do not mow slopes safely. If you can’t go up and down them don’t ever try to mow them sideways with a rider. Snapper makes a rider with a 28 and 30 inch decks. Toro makes a steering wheel zero turn with a 32 inch deck. Many of the commercial companies make a standon rider with a 36 inch deck.
Toro, Ariens, Snapper and Cub Cadet all make a lightweight 28 to 32 inch walk behind.
Dan
My slope is around 30 degrees, but the area is small. It is four feet high and 100 feet long. A push mower solution is fine. I prefer a self propelled and know that typical small tires on a push mower just will not work. The surface is not terrible, but uneven enough to stop a standard small tire push mower. What about push weed trimmer mowers? We appreciate your insights. Thanks in advance.
Dan
Thanks for the tips!
Ray
Hi Paul, I recently bought a new house. Great view comes with a back yard that has slopes ranging from 15 to up to 25 degrees. All though I know that no mower is recommended foe anything above 15. I am considering three mowers. I was wondering which mower you would recommend. These were the ones I was looking at, I liked the Husqvarna because it had anti rollback. But the Craftsman gets better reviews.
XT1 Enduro Series LT 50 in. 24 HP V-Twin Kohler Hydrostatic Gas Front-Engine Riding Mower
Husqvarna YTA24V48 24-HP V-Twin Automatic 48-in Riding Lawn Mower with Mulching
Craftsman Pro Series 46″ 24 HP V-Twin Kohler Riding Mower with Turn Tight® Extreme
Paul
Hi Ray, I’m sorry I’m behind this week. I was visiting my new grand daughter!
All three of these tractor would have what someone told you is anti-rollback.. The hydro’s and CVT all will hold the tractor in place with the engine running. Hydro’s will “creep” on a slope with the engine off and the CVT has an internal automatic parking brake when the trans is put in neutral.
The Craftsman Pro Series 46″ 24 HP V-Twin Kohler Riding Mower with Turn Tight® Extreme would be my first choice. It cuts really well, and the Turn Tight steering makes it very easy to use.
You did not mention how big the yard is so here is an alternative. 28 inch mower
William
We live in Knox Pennsylvania. Have 4 acres to mow. Some rough areas. About two acres on a fairly steep slope. What kind of a riding mower do you recommend?
Ed
Hi there,
Moved into a new home out in the country. I have about 3/4 of an acre that is lawn and about 3 acres that is a mix of wild grass, some knapweed, other weeds, and God knows what else. Some hilly sections as well.
Should I have 2 separate mowers, one for the lawn and one for the junk? I don’t want to buy a $2K mower and have it ruined by mowing the junk with it. I’ve never owned anything other than a push mower for my little 1/4 acre lawn.
I am looking at the Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro Series LT 46 in. 22 HP as an option.
Thanks for the reply in advance.
Ed
That’s what I figured, appreciate the response. I saw you can rent those bush hogs for about $100 per day. Might be worth doing that once or twice a year.
Jeremy
I live in southern missouri and have 1 acre not very rough but with a 15 slope. The bottom of the hill is just an opposite slope to my road so not too crazy of a hazard. I want a riding mower and was going to go with a zero turn but am rethinking it after everything I’m reading. I can’t spend anymore than 2500. Please help my wife is getting angry with my indecision and the yard is getting pretty tall.
Paul
Hi Jeremy, You didn’t state how big your yard is so I’m going to just give you a good tractor suggestion.
The Craftsman Pro Series 46″ 24 HP V-Twin Kohler Riding Mower with Turn Tight® Extreme is a really good choice for someone who wants a zero-turn but either can’t spend the money or doesn’t like to drive the lap-bar style.
The tractor turns almost as tight as a zero-turn so it’s a lot more agile.
The tractor is more stable on slopes.
The tractor has plenty of power.
The tractor mows really well – as well as any other mower on the market. As well a a $3400 Deere.
The tractor can pull stuff and is easy to install a bagger.
If your wife likes to work on the lawn she will really like how easy this one steers and who well it cuts.
Mike
Hi Paul
We have a 6.3 acre farm, mostly divided into pastures for 2 horses. What mower would you suggest?
thank you,
Mike
Paul
Hi Mike, a farm tractor with a bush hog. No one makes a riding mower designed to mow pastures.
Kevin
Hi,
Just purchased a house in Kalamazoo, MI. Have 5 acres, will be mowing about 2. Yard is very rough, and I am trying to reclaim some of it from brambles, brush, and dense woods. Have some slope (walk out), lots of trees, and sandy soil. I am looking for something that can haul a yard cart, roller, etc- and not be overly rattled by the lumps, bumps, and tiny stumps that litter this lawn. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Paul
Hi Kevin, Ia would look at the GTH52Xls Husqvarna at Lowes or your local dealer. It’s a heavy-duty machine and for the price is a good value for you. It features a fabricated deck and locking differential. The fabricated deck will take more abuse for your rough lawn and the locking differential will help for traction for the slope and pulling heavier attachments.
Brad Green
John,
Thanks for taking the questions. I am purchasing a place with approximately an acre of grass with slopes up to 15 degrees. Up to this point I’ve been aiming for the John Deere S240. What are your thoughts? There are sections of slope even steeper, there I intend to put in terraces. Also, much off this country (Washington state west of the mountains) stays soggy. Any additional ideas as to which type mower sounds best?
Thanks,
Brad Green
Paul
Hi Brad, The 240 is a 100 series tractor with some added features to make it look a little better sitting in your garage. But, I’ve never actually seen one – let alone used one. My local Deere dealer didn’t get many last year an they sold faster than they could get them in.
Consumer Reports gave it the same rating as the D125 and the X304. The rated the Craftsman Pro 46 and Husqvarna 46 inch better and the Snapper and Troy-Bilt 42 inch as less.
Wayne Christianson
Hi Paul, I live in South Central Wisconsin on a hobby farm. I have 5 acres. About 1.2 lawn with varying slopes from level to 15 degrees for the most part. The only problem areas are the ditches next to the road. They butt up to horse pasture so the only way to mow really is parallel to the slope and they are at least 30 degrees in places. About once a month I will also mow the horse pasture which is much rougher than the lawn. Right now I am using a residential John Deere with a 42 ” deck and hydrostatic transmission but the tranny is failing. When it gets warm it will not go up 10 degree slope. I am looking at a Husquavarna Z246 on sale at the local Farm and Fleet store for $2400. Would this be a good mower for what I am doing or should I look for something different. Thank you.
Wayne
Paul
Hi Wayne, For the size of your lawn please stay away from any zero-turn mower that cost less than $4000. They will not last more than a few years. The Husqvarna Z246 and others in that price range are not heavy enough to stay on slopes. In addition they can’t turn on slopes and it will be stuck in the fence most of the time. Finally the transmissions are not heavy enough to last on slopes. They are flat-landers only.
There really is not a riding mower that is safe to operate on slopes steeper than 15 degrees. I suggest letting the county mow that area or buy a walk-behind high weed mower. Here is an example of a rough cut. Swisher WBERC11524C 12V Predator Talon Commercial Pro Walk Behind Rough Cut Mover, 24″, Black
Wayne Christianson
Thanks Paul,
That is probably why my big box John Deere did not last very long. New, the commercial mowers are out of my price range, but maybe I can find a good used one. I appreciate the advice.
JP
Hi- I live in Warwick, NY on just under an acre of property. The front and back yard both are sloping. Our septic tank is in the front and we have a well in the back yard. We have a good number of mature trees and a lot of twigs after every storm. Do you have any suggestions for a riding lawnmower that will last? Thx
Paul
Hi JP. With the trees and other obstructions to mow around I am going to suggest a Craftsman Pro Series.
Sears: Craftsman Pro Series 46″ 24 HP V-Twin Kohler Riding Mower with Turn Tight® Extreme
JP
Thanks Paul!
Alan
Thanks again…99% sure that’s the one I’ll get.
Alan
About the Poulan Pro 960420184…Amazon says speed shifter on fender, your site says foot control which sounds better…the only lever I see is for blade height…can you clarify please?
Paul
Hi Alan, Both the picture and the description are wrong. I know from experience to always check the actual parts list to make sure the tractor you will get has the features listed – or not. The Poulan Pro 960420184 is a foot control hydrostatic. It uses the normal forward/reverse pedal – not the long one pictured. There is no fender speed contol on that model.
Alan
Thanks…those are some of the models I was considering after reading many of your articles…You da man!!
Alan
I live in Spring Hill Tennessee. Use a Honda push mower…about to buy a house on one acre with a sloping backyard with many trees, somewhat flat front yard…what kind of riding mower do you recommend? Thanks..
Paul
Hi Alan, I am going to suggest a 42 or 46 inch lawn tractor. If you go with a Craftsman with the Turn-Tight or a Poulan Pro with the 6 inch turning radius they will go around all your trees well. With a tractor you can also pull a yard cart, etc. to pick up sticks and debris. The mowers also work well if you want to bag leaves or grass.
Craftsman Pro Series 46″ 24 HP V-Twin Kohler Riding Mower with Turn Tight® Extreme
Craftsman 42″ Fast Auto 22HP Briggs & Stratton Turn Tight® V-Twin Riding Mower
Poulan Pro 960420184 Briggs 22 hp Hydrostatic Drive Riding Mower, 46″
Alan
Got the Poulan Pro PP22VH46, used it today, adjusted, for the first time. Very low cut at the highest setting, surfed the web, appears to be a problem with this brand. Level 6 left me with a 3″ cut, wouldn’t go further down. Someone recommended different tires at $42 each…any solution for this, I’m considering returning the thing.
Paul
Hi Alan, I am going to assume you are lifting up the discharge chute and measuring from the sharp edge of the blade to a hard surface like your driveway. If it is only raising to 3 inches that is an assembly problem from the factory.
The Husqvarna decks have a side to side adjustment so you can level them but there is no up and down adjustment. So there is nothing you can do beside replace the tractor or the deck lift.
I have heard of two other tractors with this problem this year but both of the were Husqvarna’s.
Alan
Still looking for a machine for 1 acre with half of it sloped with many trees…now considering Cub Cadet XT2, RZTS,or Craftsman Pro, all 42″. Cub Cadet dealer tells me their zero turn is great on slopes, the Craftsman currently have great online pricing…curious what your thoughts are…Thanks
Paul
Hi Alan, the steering wheel ZTRs are fine for slopes. The lap bar ZTRs you are looking at NO! Read my article Do you really need a zero-turn mower?.
By the way, I hate the 42 inch Cub Cadet, Troy-Bilt and Craftsman ZTR’s. Why? Because the wheel track is wider than the cutting width. You are constantly running over uncut grass! Look at the 46 inch instead.
John
Thank you! Having left a flat land farm when I went to college, I am now retired and have purchase a new home in the country. Five acres to mow. On a slope. You may have just save my life as we received a ZTR along with the property. I am heeding what you say.
Paul Sikkema
Hi John, What is the brand and model of the ZTR. I can tell you how to mow with it to be the safest and it’s limitations.